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Sister called me saying there's an oil leak in her burner. Called round and took pic of it. Its this part with the very small copper pipe going into it. The oil is dripping from it every sec or so. Can anyone tell me what it is and is it straight forward to fix?
IMG_20170530_202406699.jpg
 
That is the hydraulic air shutter ram.

Not really a diy job to fix. Far better to get an oil teci
out to fix it. Burner needs setting up properly and probably
needs a good service at the same time.
 
That is the hydraulic air shutter ram.

Not really a diy job to fix. Far better to get an oil teci
out to fix it. Burner needs setting up properly and probably
needs a good service at the same time.


Is it not just a case of removing it and installing a new one with bleeding the oil through it first?
 
Well overdue then.
Looks like the mice have been at the air shutter, that could cause
running problems.
 
Well overdue then.
Looks like the mice have been at the air shutter, that could
running problems.


I was telling her its ideal to get it done every year but she's very miserable and leaves it for a few years.

What you mean that could running problems?
 
You can buy the whole ram or replace the rubber seal. The rubber seal is about ÂŁ2 and you would need circlip pliers and patience. An oil tech could sort that easily.
 
Could cause running problems. You posted before my edit.

The chunk out of the shutter would alter the air flow so would not burn correctly. The burner needs setting up with oil pressure gauge
and flue gas analyser to get the best out of the boiler.
 
Could cause running problems. You posted before my edit.

The chunk out of the shutter would alter the air flow so would not burn correctly. The burner needs setting up with oil pressure gauge
and flue gas analyser to get the best out of the boiler.



What's worst can happen if she can't afford to pay for a service and her husband who can plum abit just renews it.
 
Looks fine to me tbh. I work at those all the time.
The leak can be fixed easily, but only if you are used to it. The ram can be repaired in about half a minute, or a new ram installed, although not needed really if a repair sorts it.
Any chunk out of air shutter won't matter just as long as the air door is adjusted when using an analyser. The actual air adjustment door is below the door you see. (The door you see is just a seal off door for when burner not running and nothing to do with air setting and is in fact not an essential part at all and not used on other burners)
Is that not a normal air shutter door?
Edit, - Just checked and that "bite"out of the shutter door is the normal way it is made. Just looks a bit odd I must admit. I get so used to looking at them that I started to doubt my memory.
 
Last edited:
Looks fine to me tbh. I work at those all the time.
The leak can be fixed easily, but only if you are used to it. The ram can be repaired in about half a minute, or a new ram installed, although not needed really.
Any chunk out of air shutter won't matter just as long as the air shutter is adjusted when using an analyser. The actual air adjustment door is below the door you see. (The door you see is just a seal off door for when burner not running and is in fact not an essential part at all and not used on other burners)
Is that not a normal air shutter door?


So is it just a case of tightening the top of ram? If not, the new one can be installed in no time. Its the other stuff that the other poster mentioned that got me worried.
 
So is it just a case of tightening the top of ram? If not, the new one can be installed in no time. Its the other stuff that the other poster mentioned that got me worried.

No, you cannot fix it by tightening anything!
The leak is almost certain to be coming from the lower part of the ram body, just where the ram shaft comes out. It is a special seal inside there, together with a strong spring, washer and circlip.
Replacing the entire ram will be IMO not needed and more expensive than a repair. It should have been done on a service if any dampness of oil was detected then.
As above posts said, it all needs set up with analyser, oil pressure gauge, etc. Services on oil in my area cost ÂŁ40 - ÂŁ50, so if an oil service engineer does a good job, then use them
 
I have just remembered what the cut out "bite" on the Riello shutter door is for, - it is so that the centre screw is accessible on the air adjustment door below, when the shutter door is manually pulled open.
 
Sister called me saying there's an oil leak in her burner. Called round and took pic of it. Its this part with the very small copper pipe going into it. The oil is dripping from it every sec or so. Can anyone tell me what it is and is it straight forward to fix?View attachment 29975
Do you not have to be oftec registered to do this job?
 
New seal is very easy damaged when fitting it.
If the circlip isn't released fully into the groove it will come off and serious full flow flooding of kerosine will occur as that ram is connected always to the oil.
 
No.
It is best to get a qualified, experienced, insured, knowledgeable Engineer though.

Agree with Last Plumber.
I work with a guy who does oil, there are a number of little things someone can do on oil boilers.
But if they are not qualified some can either go south quickly or not make any difference and then got to get engineer out anyway.
I would only be comfortable doing it if my boss had given prior instruction.
 
Heliotrope was spot on. Not a diy job. Whenever oil is played with you will need to get the analyser out and if it's 18 months then it's overdue a service.

Get it all sorted at once. But when you book the service tell them about the leak so they have the right bits with them
 
I've installed a couple of Tiger Loops and they are fairly straight forward and simple.

BUT, the first time even though I was instructed and I asked questions and I had the instruction leaflet, there was a point I could not see the part I was looking for.

It was like doing a jigsaw puzzle, you can't see the piece you're looking for so you go away for 5 mins come back then you see it in 5 seconds, and it was right in front of you the whole time.

To fit the Tiger Loop I had to take the burner out, make a physical adjustment then put it back in.
But, I couldn't see the part, so I stepped back thought about all the info I had and then the penny dropped, and just as well.

I almost, in my eagerness, would've taken another part off, because I missed the obvious.
Had I removed it, I couldn't just put it back, the boss would've had to check it and I might have voided the guarantee.

If you are serious about oil see if you can find an Oftec registered engineer who is prepared to take you on for a bit; it needs a service and a gas analyser which it doesn't sound like you have or can do anyway, so you have to get Oftec engineer out anyway.

You could do the job of cleaning the soot out from inside, yummy :).

I obviously haven't given too much info in case joe bloggs gets any ideas.

Please get an Oftec engineer out, I really do know what I'm talking about on this one.
 
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