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Discuss thermal store noise in the Renewable Energy area at UKPlumbersForums.co.uk.

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  1. paulypops

    paulypops Guest

    Hello Plumbers!!

    I have a new central heating system installed maybe 18 months ago, have had the issue from start, the installer cannot figure it out much to his (and my) frustration and has now retired.


    including a Newark thermal store working with a Worcester Bosch 24ri regular boiler (also using a log burner to heat water hence the thermal store). new copper throughout etc.

    each room has a delonghi 3 bar radiator and a Drayton TVR 4's.

    ignore the log burner.

    system was balanced when renewed.

    we have even replaced some of the TVR's thinking maybe faulty.

    The Issue:

    When the boiler/room thermostat kicks in and the pump on the thermal store start pushing hot water to the radiators I get a juddering/rattle briefly then when the pump stops I get the same.

    Please Help I have posted this job on my hammer and have had no response. this noise is really annoying please please can anyone help
     
  2. albatross

    albatross Guest

    Hard to say without hearing it.You should have one rad without a TRV as a bypass, do you? Could be that.
    Loose pipework needs clipping?
    Loose solder in pipework?
    Pump speed incorrect? Gate or non return valve rattling?
     
    • Like Like x 1
  3. paulypops

    paulypops Guest

    Hi albatross thanks for the reply.

    There is one rad without a trv in the living room where the room stat is. is that what you mean?

    otherwise there is a dump rad on the log burner circuit, but i think that is completely separate isn't it?

    it sounds a bit bassy/deep/low end (to use a audio term) to be solder, would that be correct?

    the pump on the T store has three speeds the i get the noise with all three speeds, on the fastest the noise is LOUD and the lowest speed the noise is the there only much more muffled.

    I think one of the things the installer thought it was was something to do with a return valve rattling so we had the sparky re wire things to sort it out and get one thing to work before the other...alas it did not work.

    P
     
  4. paulypops

    paulypops Guest

    71 people have viewed this thread...If anybody wants to come and hear it in person they are more than welcome...please!!! I am based just outside evesham Worcestershire
     
  5. gassafe

    gassafe Plumber GSR

    I would get rid of the check valves if there not needed, these things are more hassle than there worth... Especially the spring loaded ones!

    A flapper valve does the same job without the spring resistance, maybe an alternative... Not sure what you meant by sparky rewiring your check valve earlier...?

    Maybe post a pic of the plumbing work on the thermal store, a picture tells a thousand words!!!
     
  6. Alex Pelton

    Alex Pelton Plumber GSR

    could be wired incorrectly? No bypass? Pic's please
     
  7. paulypops

    paulypops Guest

    follow link for images
    https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8hT7GBTrqc4LWZBLXk1VWhKMnM&usp=sharing

    the red insulation on floor on left is the rise and return for the log store. the black box on floor is the shower but then you know that so ignore me

    the installer used cable ties to lash the pipes together thinking it could be that.

    re. the sparky, the installer asked him to make the valve open before the pump kicks in...or the other way around, not sure which sorry I'm not a plumber or sparky. he set it up the usual way to start with and then thought the other way might solve it.
     
  8. gassafe

    gassafe Plumber GSR

    one of the advantages of a thermal store was that they don't require motor valves etc.. That's how I understood it anyway, I can't see any valves in your pics unless there hidden behind insulation...
     
  9. paulypops

    paulypops Guest

    I will go back up in the morning and have a look. What am i looking for exactly? Would it (the unnecessary valve) be next to the 'rads' pump or at least on the pipe that comes from it?

    So are you saying it could be the pump pushing against the valve? Because thats what it audibly sounds like
     
  10. paulypops

    paulypops Guest

    ok I decided to go up tonight to take some different photos.

    what is 'A' (grey box attached to pipe) in image ? same link as before with an extra image
     

    Attached Files:

  11. paulypops

    paulypops Guest

    sorry i forgot to say, there is nothing under the grey foam insulation on the pipes i marked "Hot when CH is on" it's just copper pipes.

    cheers

    Paul
     
  12. Worcester

    Worcester Plumber

    Pauly, give me a call and we'll come and have a look - we're based in Church Lench :) - phone number, click on the link in my signature .
     
    • Like Like x 1
  13. Worcester

    Worcester Plumber

    Tried to send you a PM with my number - you're inbox is full!
     
  14. Robert Tyrrell

    Robert Tyrrell GSR

    I've been over this afternoon and it looks as though it's just a faulty centre brand two port valve. The pipework isn't pretty but it works, and it's not too loose. Who ever had been over before had zip tied the actuator on and then to the flow pipe, which IMHO was making things worse. When the valve is in the 'Manual' position i.e.. open, there's no noise at all. As soon as it's back in the 'Auto' position it causes hammer so my conclusion is that the valve needs replacing. This time I'll fit a Honeywell valve and then at least the actuator can be changed in the future.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  15. albatross

    albatross Guest

    How does it need a zone valve anyway? I've fitted several thermal stores with no need for zone valves, thats part of the beauty of them. Can you not just remove it?
     
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