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Evening all.

I am currently attempting to self install a shower pump and I was wondering If routing the pipes into the loft and then across to the bathroom around 2.5 metres away would cause any issues?

The pipes are literally running underneath the cold water cistern, will I have problems with head with it being just under the cistern?

Thanks.

wrighty
 
Pic.

White jgspeedfit pipe seen in bottom of pic.

20180209_192236.jpg
 
You will need a negative head pump if you choose that option
 
Could be a pita if you dont get it right, is it just the pipework that will be in the loft . kop
 
Why are you running it in 22mm pipe only need 15mm, connections on pump are 15mm as well as shower no benefit in using 22.
 
It is one of those jobs that might work if positive head pump, but nobody can guarantee it will.
Using plastic pipes makes it even less likely.
So strictly speaking, it should be a negative head pump.
Your pump is cheap and I guess you are trying to save money. You need an air free hot supply (use a Surrey or Warix flange) to avoid as much as possible air problems.
 
Why are you running it in 22mm pipe only need 15mm,
Why are you running it in 22mm pipe only need 15mm, connections on pump are 15mm as well as shower no benefit in using 22.

Main reasoning is basically it says to do that in the Salamander install instructions and I had some 22mm in the garage so thought that will do.

It is one of those jobs that might work if positive head pump, but nobody can guarantee it will.
Using plastic pipes makes it even less likely.
So strictly speaking, it should be a negative head pump.
Your pump is cheap and I guess you are trying to save money. You need an air free hot supply (use a Surrey or Warix flange) to avoid as much as possible air problems.

Yes, trying to save a little cash but heard good things about this pump, cheap and cheerful but does the job people say.

I have fitted a Warix flange to the top of the cylinder.

Is this 100% not going to work with this setup then?

How do I get it to work with this pump? Could I plumb it under the floor boards then across? PITA but possibly doable or should I pay ÂŁ300 for a negative pump??

Thanks.
 
Looks fine as much as I can see

No valves on the supply to the pump ??
 
Looks fine as much as I can see

No valves on the supply to the pump ??

Thanks ShaunCorbs, it seems you are on your own here though as most are saying I'll need a Negative pump and even then it's hit or miss!

Valves are on the flexi's although I was thinking of putting a full bore on the pipework in the loft.

My main concern however is seeing If the shower pump and Shower will actually work with this pipe in the loft setup.

I have read people having no issues but it seems going off here it's doomed to failure :(
 
As Shaun you need to put service valves on the pump, you could have saved yourself some money by using 15mm pipe what made you use 22mm ?? when connections at each end are only 15mm you wont get any more water out of it
 
As Shaun you need to put service valves on the pump, you could have saved yourself some money by using 15mm pipe what made you use 22mm ?? when connections at each end are only 15mm you wont get any more water out of it

It's just that I had some 22mm in the Garage that's all really plus it say's this in the installation guide - probably me being OTT with 22mm but thought I'd use what I had

"Locate the pump next to the hot water cylinder within 5m. For pumps with 15mm couplers, 2m MAX of 15mm pipework on inlet connections may be used"
 
Doesn't need 22mm outlets, but on most of inlet pipes it is good practice.
You should have had full bore lever valves on inlet pipes.
I would have used a pipe bender so to avoid using brass elbows or any fittings and also they cause restrictions. Also a bender can make nice offsets to pump and pipes would need clipped properly.
The positive pump might work okay. You don't need a negative pump if flow from shower starts the pump always, but it is a risk the positive head pump might not work and is subject to low flow or air in pipes.
 
Doesn't need 22mm outlets, but on most of inlet pipes it is good practice.
You should have had full bore lever valves on inlet pipes.
I would have used a pipe bender so to avoid using brass elbows or any fittings and also they cause restrictions. Also a bender can make nice offsets to pump and pipes would need clipped properly.
The positive pump might work okay. You don't need a negative pump if flow from shower starts the pump always, but it is a risk the positive head pump might not work and is subject to low flow or air in pipes.

Thanks Best for that, I get the pipe bender - I looked at getting one but couldn't justify the cost really!

I am going to fit a full bore on the cold inlet - I'll leave the Hot inlet as I can use the stop tap already in situ.

I have done a dummy run (without the pump connected up to the electrics) and initially the flow out was pretty poor.

It was dribble really HOWEVER I then took of the flexi and tried again and it spluttered then it came gushing out so I imagine it was trapped air.

I tested it at the Shower point and it did a litre of water in around 40secs.

I have yet to test the cold as that is yet to be plumbed in from the tank in the loft - too cold!
 
Evening all.

I am currently attempting to self install a shower pump and I was wondering If routing the pipes into the loft and then across to the bathroom around 2.5 metres away would cause any issues?

The pipes are literally running underneath the cold water cistern, will I have problems with head with it being just under the cistern?

Thanks.

wrighty
If you need to Run a shower when useing up and over pipe work use a negitive head Pump Just make sure it only feeds pump if you feed WC ? as well this is not addvisible because every time you use wc it will cause the pump to come on Its more of a annoying factor like if you have relations staying if the WC is used at nite could waken the hole house As regards pumps stay away from any of the plastic type pump impeller can melt
 
If you need to Run a shower when useing up and over pipe work use a negitive head Pump Just make sure it only feeds pump if you feed WC ? as well this is not addvisible because every time you use wc it will cause the pump to come on Its more of a annoying factor like if you have relations staying if the WC is used at nite could waken the hole house As regards pumps stay away from any of the plastic type pump impeller can melt
And i forgot to add if you have to feed wc with the NHP use a torbic ball valve this way all bases are covered what can happed is ball valve in cistern will not knock off so in the torbic ball cock pack they give you restrictors normaly high. low and medium pressure .hope this helps
 
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