Discuss riello kerosene burner in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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buffy27

rdb series riello 40 [the small one:)]
when powered up it is doing nothing... the normal humming noise prior to proper firing is not happening at all. the air intake flap at the side does not lift ..there is a really low mermer out of it ..no life !!!!!! [plenty of oil,getting electricity ,etc etc ..nothing very obvious] any idea s appreciated ..buf.
 
Could be a number of things. Oil may be getting to the burner but is it reaching the nozzel ? Its oing to be a case of checking each item one at a time.
 
Possibly the motor and / or capacitor which could be why it makes no noise:)
 
check if the electrodes are clean , and is nozzle clean, some time after you get an oil delivery dirt and water stirred up from bottom of tank can get into the pump .
 
replace control box (satronic/honeywell ?)
check oil filter.
check air damper.
check fan motor - that controls oil pump, so no fan, no oil at nozzle
check oil pump pressure.
replace nozzle.
 
Please read the OP as stated its doing nothing
 
story is that the boiler stopped working last year and was left idol..i then had a look ..gave it the basic service..it ran like a clock for a month and then the above mentioned sickness struck it down.
...i know and understand the working principals and firing process !!
the burner is spotless..1st thing i did was clean her up ..swapped atomizer .cleaned photocell...gave electrodes a rub..blast-tube scrubbed..checked control box for any discolouration.. baffles and boiler chamber cleaned.
in the mean time i have replaced it with a spare burner i had at home ....
 
is the fuel in the line , water, is pump cam turning ok
 
the replacement one is working fine ..straight swap..fuel/water/circ pump a1.
am i correct in saying .....power to the burner energises the solenoid ..this activates the motor which opens the air damper while the fan draws in air to run the fuel pump..
so problem is, i am not getting the air damper to open or the fan to run to draw on air!!!!
 
does the air damper seem to be adjusted ? what is the number its adjusted to ? did you take out the pump ? or the motor ? the bearing can give trouble in the motor , im in dublin where are u ?
 
u are confusing me dude.. i did not take out or do anything..
.......doin oftec oil after christmas ..
what about swappin solenoid or control box ..i would have thought such a fault could be narrowed down to something specific by an experienced burner guy.
 
Sounds to me like a control box problem. If you're getting power to the burner yet the burner is not kicking in at all then more than likely that's the problem. You say you're getting a humming noise? undo the fan cover (electric off!) and try turning the fan by hand. If you can't then the motors seized. Control boxes can be swapped to prove.

Jim
 
f..kin excellent jim.going to weld up a bracket to mount burners on for mucking about this weekend..let u know how i get on!!!

jim ..are the control box s universal on these small doestic burners..grey box s are all same size and shape!!!
 
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sounds like a riello 530se control box that you have? Unfortunately must be a like for like swap. If you're gonna be doing a lot of oil get some knackered burners and practice dismantling and reassembling them. Gets you to know how they work and the layout etc

Jim
 
I wonder if it's the hydraulic jack at the top of the air intake flap thingy? If there's no resistance to the flap when moving it, this could suggest it's at fault.

Only saying this as I had to replace on recently that was leaking. If it's not opening to let the air in, then the rest of the firing sequence won't work but the motor will run until lockout.

Re the control box, please someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you can test the connections on the control box to see if it's at fault, rather than just changing it and finding there was nothing wrong with the first one in any case.
 
dontknowitall--how do u test conrtol box...

jim-- i have some burners and have done some messing about but should do a bit more ..thanks to all for the help given so far..
 
How do you test control box?

Errr .... not sure!!

I think (but I'm not that experienced as you've probably guessed) that you can put a multimeter on particular connections to see if they're live during the firing sequence (as per the manual?) It's my understanding that these connections will turn on and off during the ignition process.

This is why I asked in my earlier post if someone else could correct me with this.
 
to test the control box, replace with a new one! unless your good with electrics and wish to spend time putting in cable junction boxes (to make yourself a testing point)

if you do wish to test it you will find a wiring diagram on the underside of the control box, but again you have to understand the sequence of events happening.

good luck
 
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