Discuss Programmer for Grant Boiler in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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G

Gifford

You can use any thermostat (wired or wireless) with volt-free contacts.

Have a look at page 50 in this manual:

[DLMURL]http://www.grantuk.com/downloads/combi-tech-manual.pdf[/DLMURL]

Remove the link across terminals 4 & 5 and connect the thermostat receiver contacts across these.
 
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Try this link [DLMURL="http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/plumbing/plumbing-supplies/central_heating_pumps___controls/-specificproducttype-thermostats/Horstmann-HRFS1-Room-Thermostat-11598074"]Horstmann HRFS1 Room Thermostat, 5015914156434[/DLMURL]
 
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The Screw Fix website is blocked on here!

The HRFS1 will work fine so long as you remove the link on the receiver to make the contacts volt-free.

I assume that you will not be using a separate programmer so, you can connect the programmable thermostat across terminals 8 & 9 on the boiler. Remember to remove the link.

If the thermostat is non-programmmable then use terminals 4 & 5.
 
Oh, didnt realise that about Screw Fix.

I wont be using a separate programmer only the one that comes as part of the HRFS1.
The thermostat IS programmable.
I have attached a photo of the front of my boiler - I assume I remove the existing timer and connect the new receiver here? And is the link to be removed on the new receiver?
Sorry for all the questions, but thanks for all your help.
Stevenboiler.JPG
 
So at present, you are using the built-in clock/programmer and no room thermostat?
 
Thats correct. Having to go in to utility room and "whack" the timer when heating needed on. Plenty bleeding knuckles.
Does this alter things then?
 
If you no longer require the 'Constant' option, you can bypass the existing clock/disconnect it and bridge terminals 8 & 9 on the boiler. Remove the link between terminals 4 & 5 on the boiler and connect your wireless programmable thermostat receiver contacts to them.
 
i just went to the same boiler yesterday and removed the faulty tp 5000 and fitted a 715si single channel programmer and a RETB RF + RX1 reciever, they work fine, they do the job and will last till the boiler is going to be replaced later this year. Horstman are a good brand so would go with that. Programmer connections to boiler block term 8 + 9 and room stat to boiler terms 4 + 5 as stated above. Also as stated do not link the lives to the commons on reciever as volt free. but im sure you are competant enough to wire them in ??
 
if you have the manual to hand refer to section 12.4 vortex combi, it shows the layout of the wiring. if you have a built in clock at present, it needs to be disconnected, and the new timer / programmer are connected to a different set of connections, not the same block as the built in ones connections
 
Buy a Honeywell CM907 and wire it in place of the clock. Your system wont be very efficient without a thermostat, and the CM907 (or CMT927 radio controlled one) is a thermostat and also includes a clock programmer for your heating.

Simple to fix a CMT927 as you put the receiver in place of your faulty clock.
 
Re: Thermostat/programmer

Your system wont be very efficient without a thermostat,

The OP is going to install a Horstmann HRFS1 which is a wireless programmable room thermostat.
 
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Re: Thermostat/programmer

The OP is going to install a Horstmann HRFS1 which is a wireless programmable room thermostat.

Guess I should have read all the post.

IMO the CMT927 is a better stat than the Horstmann, and easier to use.
 
Re: Thermostat/programmer

Guess I should have read all the post.

IMO the CMT927 is a better stat than the Horstmann, and easier to use.

I have found both Honeywell and Horstmann controls to be reliable. Some of the Horstmann programmers are easier to operate and more intuitive than other brands.
 
Oh well, have lid off boiler and erm, not too sure what to do now. Looked easier reading everyone's instructions. Oh well, best get a professional in.
 
Yes, I am a novice can anyone advise colour of cables to go into terminals 4 and 5 and where I am getting the mains supply for the RF receiver. If you think I should give up let me know. Thanks
 
In fact, thermostat is programmable so I should be using terminals 8 and 9. Red going into 8 and 9 so assume red going into receiver. Still looking for power supply though.
 
In fact, thermostat is programmable so I should be using terminals 8 and 9. Red going into 8 and 9 so assume red going into receiver. Still looking for power supply though.
your earth / neutral and live are terminals 1 , 2 , 3. you can take a feed from these as your boiler should be fused anyway, alternatively from the main fuse switch on the wall, the feed can come from this to the reciever, then to the boiler, if you use a seperate power supply it must have a double pole seperation of at least 3mm.

But the main advice is if you are unsure then DO GIVE UP AND GET A SPARKY as if you wire it up wrong , you can blow the pcb or more,(costly)
 
Hi, same boiler. I have been advised to reduce the water temp from the boiler slightly but can't seem to find where to do this in the manual. Can anyone advise to avoid me using the wrong thing? Thanks in advance, Steven
 
you say water temp ? to heating or DHW. If heating there is a temp control dial on the facia panel next to the pressure gauge. If you mean the DHW, if i remeber correct there is a blending/mixer valve on these. So as you look at it, to the right of the boiler, near the filling system. Probably a grey knob with the numbers. See what its set to and adjust, this just mixes with the main incoming cold to reduce/increase dhw. hope this helps.
 
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