Search the forum,

Discuss Not all Rads getting hot in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.
Here's an update on where I'm up to.

A plumber found system piped up wrong & changed to Y plan with 3 port valve.He isolated the C/H circuit & found restriction in boiler or coil.Temp rises fast on boiler 49 degrees cent to 74 degrees in 40 seconds 9Been told this could be blockage in the heat exchanger )then boiler stops F7 error (Glow worm flexicom 24 kw hx) comes up a lot of clicking while boiler is heating up and cooling down (Not heard this before).The casing on the C/H circ pump gets that hot I cant hold my fingers on it.2 rads have TRV's at wrong end.I have been advised to get a power flush.This boiler has an aluminium heat exchanger I read somewhere that it makes a difference to what you can flush with?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
He isolated the C/H circuit & found restriction in boiler or coil.Temp rises fast on boiler 49 degrees cent to 74 degrees in 40 seconds 9Been told this could be blockage in the heat exchanger )

The casing on the C/H circ pump gets that hot I cant hold my fingers on it.
Has the pump been checked? The fast temperature rise could be due to a faulty pump, which could be the reason for the very hot pump. In any case the pump is installed incorrectly as the shaft should always be horizontal, not vertical as in your pics. The installer should have drawn this to your attention.

Grundfos say: Pumps should not be installed with the shaft in a vertical plane, as this may lead to dry running of the top bearing, noise and possible pump failure.

2 rads have TRV's at wrong end.
This is only true if they are one-direction TRVs. If they are modern bi-directional TRVs it doesn't matter which end they go. Look on the metal body of the TRV for one or two arrows. If there is only one arrow the TRV must be installed so the arrow shows direction of flow (towards rad on the flow - hotter pipe, away from rad on return - cooler pipe). It there are two arrows at 90 degrees, it's a bidirectional TRV and can go on either end.

It doesn't matter if a TRV is on the flow or return; all it is doing is controlling the rate of flow through the rad.
 
Hi deden56 ... Sound like your heating system is really struggling to circulate water around it. As said before, without seeing how things are configured its a difficult call regards flushing or re-piping! Really depends on how bad it is. If the concern is with the boiler heatex though they could easily bi-pass flushing the boiler by piping it out. May be an option considering the different ages between boiler and system!
 
The pump was only changed last Monday 24/07/2011 and it is now vertical.
 
The TRV's only have one arrow and the 2 that are wronrg point into the rad but they are on the return side.
 
TRV single arrow.jpgY plan # 1.jpgY plan # 2.jpgY plan # 3.jpgNew Y plan in airing cupboard with 3 way port.TRV with arrow pointing in which is at return end.If you look back you will see old layout under bath.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The TRV's only have one arrow and the 2 that are wrong point into the rad but they are on the return side.
Instead of moving it to the other end, the TRV just needs to be turned on its side, swapping over the inlet and outlet. Having the control horizontal is theoretically better as it does not get influenced by the heat rising from the pipe.

Alternatively replace them with modern bi-directional TRVs and keep them on the same end with the head vertical.
 
as a long shot I checked the direction arrow for flow on the C/H pump it was ok
 
I have had a power flush on the advise of a plumber who did the Y plan with no change still have poor circulation.I have a plan of how it is piped and what the plumber who flushed it said.It's an excel file is it possible to upload it to here?
 
diamondgas can you message me with contact email so I can send plan.
 
so many things to check, do they get warm upstairs and not downstairs? Is it that there are some up and some down?? I'd be looking at the pump, whether the by-pass is set correctly or if there's any blockages
 
heat exchanger or coil has been mentioned to me.Is this a clean or change? and how do I check if it is this.The central heating pump is getting very hot and getting F22 fault code Glow worm Flexicom hx 24 kw
 
Last edited by a moderator:
if it didnt work before it sounds like you have a problem in the basic design of your system you need two motorised valves and probably a balancing valve on the cylinder get the controls sorted then you can repipe properly sorry failure to read complete thread controls look fine now
 
Last edited:
call e plumber as mention above you have been given a number to a good plumber ! call him and hi will sort it out for you ! do not leave it till next day summer is nearly over
 
The plumber who piped the Y plan is going to disconnect the cylinder and put a hose through it and also cut flow and return and put water through boiler to see if either is blocked
 
Try running a magnet over the pipework near the pump, if it sticks then theres a good chance theres a blockage. Prime candidate is where the cold feed from the F & E enters the syatem or neutral point as its more commonly known.
 
When He disconnected the cylinder there was a little amount of scale and brown water.The coil was flushed through with fresh water until clear.He fitted a vent after the 3 way valve .Only the rads upstairs are getting hot .I have had a climpro fitted .The tap water is set for 55 degrees but I have noticed the boiler is reaching temp of 95 degrees.He disconnected some rad pipes in the cellar and there was a lot of what I think was scale .He has said I might have to change the TRV's.only the rads upstairs are getting warm.
 
Try running a magnet over the pipework near the pump, if it sticks then theres a good chance theres a blockage. Prime candidate is where the cold feed from the F & E enters the syatem or neutral point as its more commonly known.

its so so common
 
When He disconnected the cylinder there was a little amount of scale and brown water.The coil was flushed through with fresh water until clear.He fitted a vent after the 3 way valve .Only the rads upstairs are getting hot .I have had a climpro fitted .The tap water is set for 55 degrees but I have noticed the boiler is reaching temp of 95 degrees.He disconnected some rad pipes in the cellar and there was a lot of what I think was scale .He has said I might have to change the TRV's.only the rads upstairs are getting warm.

any thoughts on this?
 
I cant believe this has not been sorted yet either

I agree that it is not good practice to combine a single pipe system with a two pipe system even so you still expect some sort circulation. The fact that your boiler is getting up to 95 degrees is not good for the boiler so I would suggest that you should turn it down so it reaches a maximum temp of 60 degrees the fault is not on the boiler its on the system.

My suggestion for discovering what the fault is with the system is to purchase a lazer thermometer and follow the route of all the pipwork the best you can to find where the system stops circulating, so far you have spent a lot of time and money altering pipework and getting nowhere. I feel its time to go back to basics
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to Not all Rads getting hot in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

OFFICIAL SPONSORS

OFFICIAL SPONSORS

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock