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Discuss New build upstairs pipework order of & markings in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Hi All,

Currently doing a new build that has underfloor heating downstairs and radiators upstairs. From the image provided can anyone tell me in order from left to right what each one of these pipes does by the way the plumber has marked them with tape. Thanks.
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Left to right if i had to guess cold main, secondary hot , hot water , heating flow and return zone 1 and heating flow and return zone 2, not a good idea to run hot pipework next the cold for obvious reasons and so tight to the wall this is all wrong to . Cheers kop

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How's he going to insulate them ?
 
You and i know they probably wont get done or will be boxed and packed with fireglass shaun , not good bud schoolboy errors here but hey ho we all have to clear up after others from time to time . kop
 
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Hi, Many thanks for your replies. The builders have boxed it all in now. I'm not actually sure if they even insulated them? Are you all basically saying this is a S*** job? This gives me even more reason to panic as they've installed the underfloor heating so it runs under the kitchen units too, I've heard this is not a good idea! Thanks.
 
I would say so

If there no insulated there going to be heating where there run so your bills will be slightly higher

Also I wouldn't of run external soil pipe internally

Looks like any new build that the builders had a jobbing plumber on expect problems later on
 
No you dont put underfloor loops where theres kitchen units , lots of silly mistakes looks like lack of experience and knowledge maybe? the works neat enough but just not as it should be could cause you problems down the line . cheers kop
 
If it's boxed it, it won't have light on it, so UV degradation not likely. What other problems could this cause?

Don't think normal glue works with it

But would never use it internally any way
 
I must say the close-up of that strap on boss makes it look like there is a gap between the boss and the pipe. Is it just me? Or is it a rubber sealed jobby that doesn't use solvent weld?
 
I must say the close-up of that strap on boss makes it look like there is a gap between the boss and the pipe. Is it just me? Or is it a rubber sealed jobby that doesn't use solvent weld?

Go with your instincts ;)
 
Thanks for your replies. Looks like the downstairs floor is going to have to come up again and maybe the ceiling down. Why would you not use push fit on a secondary return? This is all rather worrying as a new build has to have a warranty. If the pipe blew would it cause all sorts of problems with insurance companies etc not paying out because it's specifically not meant to be used on a secondary return? Thanks.
 
it cant / not designed for it

these days your better off not using the builders plumber and get one yourself
 
Dont panic Rodger there is a solution to your underfloor problem you could abandon the pipework in the floor and fit a overlay system it would probably work out cheaper than ripping the whole floor up and save alot of man hours in labour , MAINCOR products are my go to for underfloor heating brilliant stuff and a good company to deal with it can be purchaced through Grahams builders merchants part of the jewson group , or our sponsor company UHEAT also do a overlay system so could be cost effective to contact them also, the other pipework can be sorted in a few days by a good heating installer best of luck . kop

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Cheers guys. That looks like a really good alternative and could save me a great deal of hassle, I'll have a look at that in a bit. I'm thinking.... those pipes going up the wall run from the garage and under the kitchen floor which are now buried below the underfloor heating, insulation and screed. If the plumber has joined those copper pipes under the floor could they leak? I Can't actually remember what he did, but there were a few bends to get to that point of the wall, I presume he joined them? Cheers.
 
It would have been pressure tested surely ? i suggest it is repeated before any more work is done for your own piece of mind. Cheers kop
 
I think they did that, but wasn't there to see it. As you say best to get it done again. Fingers crossed! Many thanks all of you for all your help on this subject, you've been really helpful. All the best!
 
This doesn't help you but at this stage I would want that floor up to check and change his pipework

Best time to do it
 
Hi Shaun, I've got pics here of the before the screed went down, just shown them to a plumber friend and he says the pipes are too far apart and as it's a big room ( Open Plan ) they should be spaced much tighter 150mm - 200mm also I read somewhere if they aren't clipped enough the pipes can move when it's being screeded over due to the pressure of the hose? Is that enough clips? As far as I can see there are 4 zones downstairs. I've got some pics here..... Cheers!

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I normally do the snail path which is 200mm centres and then once you get to the centre you can run your return in the middle giving you 100mm centres

Hope this makes sense

Any pics of where the pipes are eg hot cold flow return etc (coming down the wall)
 
Hmm. The closer together, the higher the output, but if it's a modern, well-insulated, house with a lot of floor area relative to outside wall area then you'll need less of a high output than in a retrofit situation.
 
Hi,

Cheers for your replies guys. I think the floors going to have to come up, don't think I'll get away with an overlay system because of the bi fold doors but not sure? One thing I've just noticed is that they've used Hep2O push fit fittings with Speedfit pipe. I rang John Guest Speedfit and they said if that's the case it won't be covered by their warranty and if anything goes wrong insurance won't pay out for damage? This is a nightmare scenario for me as I'm just in the final stages of the new build and the house has to have a warranty. The systems been pressure tested, but I don't think I can simply rely on this can I? The other thing I've noticed is that they've used 15mm pipe for the bath taps, surely this should be 22mm for greater flow? The underfloor heating isn't zoned either :rolleyes: Thanks.
 
Unvented cylinder for hot water?

15mm should be ok for baths but depends on water flow rates.
 
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