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I have a radiator on the landing that was leaking on the right hand end beneath the temperature dial 6 months ago and I was advised to turn the valve on the other end off because I don't use the radiator and it was either that or replace parts. Problem solved. Until now when the valve itself, on the left end, is also leaking. There's some brown gunk in the water too. The valve is closed tight but there's still a constant drip. It was fine until now. Perhaps a pressure problem? Anyway, I could use some advice on how to seal it. Or a better suggestion even. Cheers. :)
 
Your only way now is to change the rad valve as it sounds like the rubber o ring that seals the pin has started to fail

Sorry to say
 
Your only way now is to change the rad valve as it sounds like the rubber o ring that seals the pin has started to fail

Sorry to say

Oh drat! Well I can't afford to get someone else to do the job. Is it easy to replace providing I can undo the nut and remove the old one? It may be a few weeks before I can afford to buy a new one. Since I don't use this radiator do you think I should just replace the smaller valve on the left end? Or should I buy a whole set and replace both in case the pressure builds up again and the new ring goes? I know they both need to be replaced at some point. Depends how easy the job is! Is there anything else I need to be aware of? Thanks.
 
Do you know what system you have ?

Combi boiler
Or cylinder?
 
any chance of a pic of the boiler?
 
Oh drat! Well I can't afford to get someone else to do the job. Is it easy to replace providing I can undo the nut and remove the old one? It may be a few weeks before I can afford to buy a new one. Since I don't use this radiator do you think I should just replace the smaller valve on the left end? Or should I buy a whole set and replace both in case the pressure builds up again and the new ring goes? I know they both need to be replaced at some point. Depends how easy the job is! Is there anything else I need to be aware of? Thanks.

Unfortunately, if it were that easy everyone would be doing it.

We'll wait for a picture of the boiler before giving advice I think. Perhaps another question to determine, is there tanks in the loft that are still in use?
 
If money is an issue are you any good at a bit of DIY ? You could drain system, remove valves from Pipes, Buy 2 x 15mm compression cap ends and blank off pipes, you will need to replace inhibitor in heating system.
 
any chance of a pic of the boiler?

Oh that would be tricky! Easier to describe it. It's made by Ravenheat and it's about ten years old. Looks like a white box from the outside. It has a removable metal panel at the front with a hole through which to see the flame. A temperature dial at the bottom and two switches to the left of that, for turning the heating and hot water on and off.
 
If money is an issue are you any good at a bit of DIY ? You could drain system, remove valves from Pipes, Buy 2 x 15mm compression cap ends and blank off pipes, you will need to replace inhibitor in heating system.

Sadly no. That sounds more dramatic (drastic) than I was hoping to get away with if I'm honest.
 
Well if you cant DIY it, you need to get someone in to at least stop the leak ! B4 it turns into something more serious , have you tried your insurance Co you may be covered for this sort of thing,
 
Unfortunately, if it were that easy everyone would be doing it.

We'll wait for a picture of the boiler before giving advice I think. Perhaps another question to determine, is there tanks in the loft that are still in use?

Well all I want to do is seal a pipe on a radiator I don't even use. I succeeded in turning it off when the other valve was leaking and that stopped it. So I thought there should be a simple method of dealing with this leak as well.

There's no loft, no tank, no.
 
Well if you cant DIY it, you need to get someone in to at least stop the leak ! B4 it turns into something more serious , have you tried your insurance Co you may be covered for this sort of thing,

Right, yeah, unless there's a simple way to do it myself. Sure, that would be the next measure. As I said I just don't have any money. I'm officially very poor and have never had insurance for anything in my life. I don't live in that world. 'Suffering for my art' as they say. lol. I fixed the leaking pipe under the sink by replacing those useless red rubber washers with something more substantial. I take it this situation is more complicated than that. But, like the first guy said, I might be able to handle replacing the valve, or even both.
 
Well if you have a couple of spanners to do it your self would cost less than a ÂŁ5 for a couple of compression fittings and it would be cheaper than replacing valve, if your as poor as you claim ask a family member if they can do it for you or help,
 
but drain the system first before you start undoing the nuts
 
Think this OP is trying the sympathy card, claims to be very poor & have no money, but can afford a land line & internet connection, will have own house /car flat screen TV etc. just trying to get job done for free. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Or at least enough information to do it themselves leaving a local, qualified and professional tradesman out of the equation.
 
drain system/ freeze pipes
drain rad you doing the rad valves on
undo and either replace rad valve or cap pipes
fill back up and replace inhb and vent system (dont need this step if you froze the pipes)

alot could go wrong and easily get out of hand if you dont know what your doing
 
Well if you have a couple of spanners to do it your self would cost less than a ÂŁ5 for a couple of compression fittings and it would be cheaper than replacing valve, if your as poor as you claim ask a family member if they can do it for you or help,

OK thanks for that. I should be able to handle it alone don't you think? Please describe what the compression fittings are so I can buy them and how to fit them if you don't mind. Yeah, I live on less than dole money and there's only a few members of my family and they live on the other end of the country. I'm fairly isolated with a handful of friends who are no better at this sort of thing that I am.
 
drain system/ freeze pipes
drain rad you doing the rad valves on
undo and either replace rad valve or cap pipes
fill back up and replace inhb and vent system (dont need this step if you froze the pipes)

alot could go wrong and easily get out of hand if you dont know what your doing

Right, it's not worth the risk. Hopefully there's a simpler way of blocking this one small unused radiator.
 
There was no need for that

We're only thinking what would be the safest and quickest method of solving the problem for you no need to throw your toys out

Simple something a beginner diyer could do

Evo-Stik 007 All-in-One Sealant & Adhesive Black 290ml

Remove the trv head and cover the pin and top of the trv body in that
 
There was no need for that

We're only thinking what would be the safest and quickest method of solving the problem for you no need to throw your toys out

Simple something a beginner diyer could do

Evo-Stik 007 All-in-One Sealant & Adhesive Black 290ml

Remove the trv head and cover the pin and top of the trv body in that



Right well anyway BINGO. Thanks man. OK so no need to undo the nut or remove the valve. Just this. I hope this simple solution works! It's ÂŁ8.50 on Ebay. This means you're saying that pressure is NOT an issue, right?
 
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My apologies. I didn't mean to include you actually. Read back up the thread and you'll notice a good portion of bitching and Nuremberg Trials! My response was perfectly justified. And fun!

Right well anyway BINGO. Thanks man. OK so no need to undo the nut or remove the valve. Just this. I hope this simple solution works! It's ÂŁ8.50 on Ebay. This means you're saying that pressure is NOT an issue, right?

If it's just dripping out slightly will be fine if it's spraying out all over the place need a new valve or cap it off

The only guaranteed way is to either replace the valve or cap it off
 
Keep it polite everyone please else I will have to lock the thread and put it in the well of doom!

Thanks for understanding guys!
 
If it's just dripping out slightly will be fine if it's spraying out all over the place need a new valve or cap it off

The only guaranteed way is to either replace the valve or cap it off
Right well anyway BINGO. Thanks man. OK so no need to undo the nut or remove the valve. Just this. I hope this simple solution works! It's ÂŁ8.50 on Ebay. This means you're saying that pressure is NOT an issue, right?

2 x compression caps will cost a lot less than ÂŁ8.50 and as long as you drain system very easy to fit, anyone with some common sense & a couple of spanners can do it
 
2 x compression caps will cost a lot less than ÂŁ8.50 and as long as you drain system very easy to fit, anyone with some common sense & a couple of spanners can do it

Op doesn't want to drain or freeze the system
 
If it's just dripping out slightly will be fine if it's spraying out all over the place need a new valve or cap it off

The only guaranteed way is to either replace the valve or cap it off

Well it's a constant drip rather than spray. I have tied a cloth around it for now. I'll get some of that special sealant you showed me and see if it lasts. And make a note that if it doesn't the next step is a bit more radical and may cost me a week's money because, from what I gather here, either of those jobs could be more than I can handle. I thought you meant originally that it was simply a case of removing one valve and replacing it. Those ones on the left only cost a fiver on Ebay. I guess one can find the solution in a forum like this and then look for actual directions on YouTube or somewhere. Thanks for your sane advice and clarity. The internet eh? :)
 
P923.4 Stop End 15mm 2 Pack

Pair of end caps. Take it apart and use threaded end to screw onto pipe where your valve is. Would need to drain system or some of the water to be able to remove valve.
This may be handy
Good luck
 
P923.4 Stop End 15mm 2 Pack

Pair of end caps. Take it apart and use threaded end to screw onto pipe where your valve is. Would need to drain system or some of the water to be able to remove valve.
This may be handy
Good luck

Sounds like this is the ideal solution. I've ordered a tube of that Evo-stick sealant now and understand that this should do the job. I plan to place the plastic cover back over it to make it snug. That can always be cut off later if necessary. I'll keep this info in case it doesn't work! Cheers.
 
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