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buckley plumb

what is the best make of lead lock to use. got to cut an old mains stoptap off this wk and there is only about2" of the lead on show from the floor .unable to solder copper to the lead as the mains stoptap in the street is slightly passing.

ant
 
i see a lot where the old stop tap is left on and a new one fitted just above
 
Would normally drill a hole lower down to let water out, solder on some copper, drive a match into hole and solder over. But doesn't sound like you have enough lead on show.
 
make sure you have enough room around the tap so you can easily fit the leadlock.
and dont worry that at first it feels to big as it will soon tighten down.
If i am going to put any cooper on the other end i try and fit a piece before fitting the leadlock.
regards
 
what solder would you use to solder the copper to the lead i have seen on the web people using big sticks where can these be bought from

ant
 
Use a Philmac universal coupling - cheaper and easier to use than leadlocks.
 
Use a Philmac universal coupling - cheaper and easier to use than leadlocks.

i would do but the customer wants the pipe as flush to the wall as possible so it can be dot and dabbed over with plaster board as this mains comes up on an inner wall which will now be a sitting room .got to lead lock and then tape up and chisel some brick from behind to get it back as far as possible not looking forward to it .ony 3" of lead to play with.

ant
 
its grown an inch since the op then!! why don't you tickle your pipe and it may grow some more:1eye:

seriously though 3 inch should be enough to get a leadlok on
 
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make sure you turn the water supply of in the street first.
and before you go hammer and tongs at it with a hacksaw drill a mm small hole in the pipe to make sure, have a small screw at hand to put in just in case.
i say this becuase did one last year, it turned out the supply came from next door, 1870s house
 
its grown an inch since the op then!! why don't you tickle your pipe and it may grow some more:1eye:

seriously though 3 inch should be enough to get a leadlok on

well you know what us blokes are like with size approx 2-3 inches i did not measure it.

ant
 
against water regs to do a taffy joint on the lead,
mechanical only or dig down.
 
managed to do it on thur . the lead lock split olive was a nice tight fit i had to strecth it over the pipe but the lead pipe was slack in the fitting end which worried me but it held and no leak.i have to admit i did not enjoy it especialy with the customer watching every move- and the mains switched off 2 houses so when i draining the water flow stopped then when i cut the lead pipe next doors house started to unairlock and drain up through the lead i cut
ant
 
against water regs to do a taffy joint on the lead,
mechanical only or dig down.

That's what I thought. I'll even go as far as to say I'm led to believe that all lead must be pulled out no matter the cost to the client as it's mandatory. There can be comebacks if you don't.
Surely this can't be enforceable? Or if it is, I haven't seen any reported prosecutions.

Won't condensation be an issue if they're plastering over the lead?
 
That's what I thought. I'll even go as far as to say I'm led to believe that all lead must be pulled out no matter the cost to the client as it's mandatory. There can be comebacks if you don't.
Surely this can't be enforceable? Or if it is, I haven't seen any reported prosecutions.

Won't condensation be an issue if they're plastering over the lead?
went to price a terrace house on fri AND THE WATER BOARD HAD JUST BEEN AND FITTED 2 WATER METERS TO THE OLD LEAD PIPES
 
That's unbelieveable. I don't understand how we are told that we must follow the law and risk losing contracts to cowboys and these bigger companies can get away with it. If it's mandatory then it's law- end of. It's not ambiguous in any way.
 
Existing lead can be left. There is no requirement to replace it. You are not allowed however to connect to a potable (drinking water) lead pipe other than by mechanical means.
Buckley
For future information the solder you need is grade D bars. Only to be used on non potable.
 
Thanks, Tamz. I'm going to question this a bit more thoroughly as I was specifically told in the manner I said. I know because I listen very intently and questioned the practicality of the 'real world' and was told that the HSC don't live in the real world. And they don't care how much it costs or disruptions etc. But I also read in another thread that you can relocate a non-condensing boiler if you apply to building control in some cases. It's a mockery of interpretation. Although it may have been misquoted at the time which then will comply with your statement. Unless you have a reference available I can read?
 
I'll look it out tomorrow. There is definately no requirement to change lead. Some WA's will not even change a lead supply. It is to do with after a few years the lead develops an oxide coating that lessens leaching. If you do a wiped joint it exposes the bare lead and increases the lead content in the supply although personally i can't see the difference as if you make a mechanical joint the lead has to be cut, baring fresh lead and leading to the same result. Who are we to ponder such things? Someone is being paid big bucks to work this out lol.
 
I appreciate it. The regs state that no material that can cause contamination if it's to be used in repair renewal construction etc...downstream unless as you say, it's not for wholesome supply. But the other concern is to prevent from galvanic corrosion. The lead can become perforated through electrolysis. This is in the regs too. So if something happens it could be a grey area. It's good to have a complete understanding especially if it's a fit and forget job.
 
So does this mean that if i get a job to renew the kitchen sink and find the entire internal cold water supply is in lead, I have to rip the whole lot out and renew back to the stopcock?
 
I appreciate it. The regs state that no material that can cause contamination if it's to be used in repair renewal construction etc...downstream unless as you say, it's not for wholesome supply. But the other concern is to prevent from galvanic corrosion. The lead can become perforated through electrolysis. This is in the regs too. So if something happens it could be a grey area. It's good to have a complete understanding especially if it's a fit and forget job.

This is the part that states you can effectively leave it as it is. No need or requirement to replace.

2. (4) Nothing in these Regulations shall require any person to remove, replace, alter, disconnect
or cease to use any water fitting which was lawfully installed or used, or capable of being used,
before 1st July 1999.

You are quite correct about the galvanic action but regardless of whether a bit copper is soldered on or joined with a leadlock or philmac, if it is going to happen it will.
 
Thanks for clarifying, Tamz. I like to advise people correctly when on site. The things is, I know what I was taught. It now seems to be in error if nothing was stated in the regs.
 
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