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Discuss Inserting tap isolator into fixed pipework in situ in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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Springer5

Hi all

I'm new to plumbing and I want to install some isolator valves for a couple of taps in a house I've just moved into.

I've seen just about every video on the Web on how to use compression joints and that all seems pretty straight forward.

The problem is this. ...

The taps are old and are built in behind a cupboard space. Basically they would be a nightmare to remove.
So once I've cut the pipework below the tap ready to insert my isolator, how can I actually physically get it in there?

What I'll have once I've cut it is 2 sections of pipe. 1 coming up from under the floor the other down from the (still fixed in) tap. Both sections will still be fixed in place and I'm not sure how I'll be able to get the isolator into the gap.

Will I be able to bend the pipes slightly to open up the gap temporarily?

All the videos I've seen are demonstrated using little sections of pipe that that are free at both ends so can obviously be maneuvered into the joint.

Thanks in advance
 
hi springer welcome to the forums. you may be lucky in that when you cut the pipe you will find that there is play in it to enable you to fit the isos.
 
you might have enough play to get them in or you might not. It takes a bit of experience to be able to judge how much you can bend the pipe. If there is no room then you will have to modify the pipework slightly.
 
get a repair coupling which has no stop inside side you will have to cut out a section of pipe
 
get a repair coupling which has no stop inside side you will have to cut out a section of pipe
 
Hi folks. Thanks for all your suggestions. I have decided to try Stevens idea of using a repair coupling.
I'll cut out a section of pipe put the isolator into that turn use repair couplings to rejoin the section to the main pipework.

It seems odd to me that no one produces a 'slip' isolator. Though I expect there's a technical reason.

Anyway thanks again for your help and ideas.

Cheers
 
as the other guys have said or

depending how much room you've got u could

cut the pipes , put a compression elbow on the pipe that comes up

then a short piece of pipe, a 15 mm stopcock then a flexable hose up to the pipe that goes onto the taps

better to use soldered joints but if ur unsure use some compression fittings

u will need a tin of potable boss white, when putting it onto the olive u smear it onto the front of the olive as it goes into the fitting

if u can't get any slip fittings, get a round file and take out the ridge inside the compression coupling and u will then have a skip coupling

if u use a bought one, get a marker pen , hold it up to the pipe so u will see when Installed where it needs to go and is installed equally on each pipe
 
Thanks for your help gas man. I've decided to make up a piece of pipe with an isolate in it then fit that in place of the existing pipework using compression slip coupling. I'll use potable sealing paste.

Thanks again
 
to save buying a whole pot of paste you could just buy a roll of PTFE and put a few wraps around the front of the olive.
 
to save buying a whole pot of paste you could just buy a roll of PTFE and put a few wraps around the front of the olive.


Thanks mate. I didn't realise ptfe would do it. I've only ever used it on actual threads before now. But if that's the case even better because I've already got some of that.

Thanks for the tip :)

should it be wrapped on thick enough to stop the olive sliding even before compressing it or only once compressed. .. If that makes sense?
 
Compress the olive first, undo what you did then you can check it and make sure its compressed. Then do your wraps of ptfe around it and retighten it.
 
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