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no worries i agree with you by the way im a taffy i live in caerphilly so hes abit far away but i guess a wind up keeps you on your toes
 
Cheers phil, did-not think the Welsh had a sense of humor, just large welly boots, are their any good looking sheep near you or are they all spoken for ?? any chance you could fix me up ?
 
Ste b.. Is that the right fixing for the basin , i fitted the same one and used basin bolts , yours looks like it tilting forward
 
The w/ c inlet looks a piece of art , a flexy tap con would have looked ok , all the best
 
jts said "Still Ive found some-one who bites very easey,"

One on every forum lol,which school did you say you went too lol,easy is easy,lol looking forward to your forum input.....
 
Just read this thread and looked at the photos. It's not pretty but then you have allready been told that.

At least you are on here, trying to improve your skills, and despite the fact that the pipe work isn't good....you've taken the time to clean the joints up and probably taken great care in making them.

So in short, they won't leak.

I'd give you a good mark for effort, but execution falls short of the mark in my opinion. Keep trying and remember to try and keep things simple. It will look best that way.

Thanks for posting the pics. Makes the thread more interesting.
 
Just looked at the pictures and the feed to the cistern is very very bad, as somebody else stated you could have cut in isolate valve lower down then made a neat offset straight up to tap con ( invest in a hilmor! )
 
One thing I would add is that I notice you are putting ptfe around your isolation valves. They have an olive which makes the seal, the thread on them does not need ptfe because the water should never reach that far. Just make sure the pipe is engaged fully into the fitting and the olive is on straight, then tighten up. your wasting your time by putting tape on those threads and it will look unprofessional.
 
You are right, - ptfe on valve threads! Def a no no! I would add that paste should always be used & to be a bit controversial, - I would avoid those ordinary ballofix valves anyhow, as they reduce flow, leak at seal where slot is, (especially on hot pipes) & often break. The better quality type that is full flow & is made same as a lever valve is best.
 
Just looked at the pictures and the feed to the cistern is very very bad, as somebody else stated you could have cut in isolate valve lower down then made a neat offset straight up to tap con ( invest in a hilmor! )
Is there any reason why you did not just use a couple of bends on feed to cistern? Also the waste pipe on whb could have been altered from under pipe-box to tidy it up and also it look's as though you used the old bent soil connector which you would have probably been better replacing
 
You are right, - ptfe on valve threads! Def a no no! I would add that paste should always be used & to be a bit controversial, - I would avoid those ordinary ballofix valves anyhow, as they reduce flow, leak at seal where slot is, (especially on hot pipes) & often break. The better quality type that is full flow & is made same as a lever valve is best.

I would of said that ptfe used correctly (on olive and not threads) is 100x better than paste for servicing.

But disagree on the valve but the quality of the valve. The tap that it was feeding appeared to have very thin flexis, so in this job it would of made very little difference

On bath taps I would say you have to have a full bore
 
I would of said that ptfe used correctly (on olive and not threads) is 100x better than paste for servicing.

But disagree on the valve but the quality of the valve. The tap that it was feeding appeared to have very thin flexis, so in this job it would of made very little difference

On bath taps I would say you have to have a full bore
Appreciate that the flow in some cases won't be made any worse, or indeed matter, like feeding a toilet cistern, if using ballofix. And frankly, we have all used them, although I am not fond of them.
As to the ptfe / tape on olive choice, I always say paste, (just a smear) providing it is non hardening, as it will seal well & also makes compressing a joint easier because it means less friction. I don't see an issue with servicing problems using paste, unless it is Boss White type which will cause problems on hot pipes.
Someone on another thread suggested using gas tape over the olives, which sounds a good idea.
 
It was always emphasised to me that pipework should take the shortest route, and formed bends are preferable to fittings.
Try to keep pipework clip distance from the wall and don' use dissimilar fittings if they are visible.
Neatness is what impresses the customer. It doesn't make it right just because it works. Would you buy a car with different coloured doors?
 
It was always emphasised to me that pipework should take the shortest route, and formed bends are preferable to fittings.
Try to keep pipework clip distance from the wall and don' use dissimilar fittings if they are visible.
Neatness is what impresses the customer. It doesn't make it right just because it works. Would you buy a car with different coloured doors?
That makes perfect sense, - to a plumber, but with some of the public, you would have to actually show them the right way & the wrong way to do a job, before they might understand! I see ( & I am sure we all do ) lovely new bathroom jobs with the whole look spoiled because the pipes are in the wrong place. When I point this out to people, they usually stare at it for a moment & then say, " oh yes! I see what you mean! ".
 
Job completed this afternoon,i ended up bunging the tank and all draining went well,water was off approx 20 mins whilst i fitted new isoloation valve"s to new wash basin hw and cw,then i run every out-let in turn and carried out rest of work with only one small problem which was the chrome waste for basin,32mm my arse lol,fitted white compression fittings which i still not happy with,as i had to get bigger seals because the chrome pipe did not fit well into 32mm push fit at all,i had to but bigger seals to seal into the 32 mm compression fittings,something to bear in mind with these chrome basin traps, can you buy chrome fittings ? .... i never seen them.....................anyway cheers for all your comments,job done even had 3 cakes baked for me by the owners daughter lol..........
yes you can get chrome fittings at bnq. you only needed one!. and a s.s. flexi would look better dont think?
interesting mix though chrome and white, the only other place i have seen that is on the wifes car.lol.
 
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That feed to cistern gets worse every time i look, you should consider going back to change it
 
some people would say go away,but not me,i am going back to the house this week to sort out the pipework to W/C cistern,i did explain to customer why i have done the waste that way and they did not want to pay for the chrome fittings and chrome pipe, i could not get push fit fitting for the waste as the chrome pipe only measures 30mm (why i dont know) and they would not fit onto the fittings,so i had to get the compression ones and put different seals in to seal the dodgy chrome pipe that was supplied with the wash-basin,i could not see any other way i could have done the waste as it would not angle back to the wall rather than the side due to the fittings,so i am stuck with it,but as i said i spoke to the customer today and am going back this week,i agree it does look bad but @ college they drummed into us less fittings and use bends,i allready cut pipework and have the 90 yorkshire fittings ready to be installed,pictures will be posted of alltered work,as for the sink,it is bolted to the wall,but the customer told me to leave the old sink bracket in place to give extra support,cheers for all the input,its appreciated.........
 
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I feel the sink waste pipe could have stayed vertical & if you really needed it closer to the wall you could use 2 of 45 degree bends or the male & female angled bends (all in white).
The chrome trap could probably point straight back. Wonder if the larger type push on waste fittings - or m&f bends, would fit on the trap? They use a heavier rubber washer, so are universal.
 
you could have probably cut the chrome pipe shorter and turn the trap towards the wall
 
All sorted now,cheers for all the comments,good and bad lol,pipework improved,the waste will stay the same this time, and more effort needed for next time lol............customer happy so i am also.....no leaks so soldering still 100% lol,new tools and equipment invested in,eg "CISTERN BUNGS" and a little bit more ideas from the forum which is all taken on board,not bad for free,them colleges should use these forums lol......cheers,looking forward forward to next task,could be new pessure differental valve on my boiler,or complete valve change,another washroom is in the pipeline with a shower cubicle,thatll be interesting..........
 

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Oh and i worked on my first indirect system since leaving college,which was what this initial post was all about.........
 
WC pipe looks decent in the photo now!
Still don't like that basin waste pipe with those bends, but not something to worry about.
Glad you are learning & trying to improve.
 
well done for having the balls to go back and change the pipe

i thought your first effort was great and others will say im mad for that but its the effort that counts
 
Yes well done SteB looks 100% better than last time ! keep it up , Should have changed trap for white plastic, but somthing to remember next time.:hurray:
 
Yes well done SteB looks 100% better than last time ! keep it up , Should have changed trap for white plastic, but somthing to remember next time.:hurray:


fanny trap would of been best
 
Don't mind me while I reply to a few of the threads. We need the new thread pages to be picked up correctly. If this thread isn't current, just visit the plumbing forum and post your own new thread or checkout the other existing threads.
 
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