Help-Warmflow bluebird 70/90 cuts out?

[stefan]

Hi all, not sure if this is the right place to post?

I had run out of oil and refilled, i have been told to bleed it, i have unscrewed the line and release oil, it is coming out in a steady flow ' Do i fire up the boiler when this line is unscrewed ? any info would be very much appreciated thanks

 

[Best]

No! Don't try to fire up the boiler unless everything is tight again!
The oil pump is supposed to be bled in most cases.
Did you try to bleed the oil pump, or did you disconnect an oil pipe or oil hose?

 

[Dotty]

Hello Stefan

Tighten the flexi oil line back up and then try firing the burner.

You haven't touched anything else have you?

 

[Best]

I should have added, - don't unscrew any screws/nuts on the oil pump unless you know for sure which is a bleeding point. There is an oil pressure adjustment screw always & it cannot be touched!

 

[Best]

You haven't touched anything else have you?

You got there before me! Those press screws really need a tamper proof cover over them.

 

[Dotty]

You got there before me! Those press screws really need a tamper proof cover over them.

You're not wrong there brother.

 

[stefan]

Hi all, thanks for the reply , i circled in yellow the part i unscrewed

 

[Dotty]

Don't touch anything else or you could knacker your burner.

Do that flexi back up and try firing your burner.

 

[stefan]

still the same, Do i leave it for any amount of time before trying to start it up again? thanks lads

i also send reply with photo attached to it

 

[stefan]

sorry it took a while for the photo to appear,

 

[stefan]

Just wondering if that was the right one to unscrew? thanks in advance

 

[Best]

Try to slacken the silver nut (just above the circle you have drawn on your photo) with a 15mm spanner back a turn until only oil comes out - should take only 10 seconds & then retighten tight but don't over tighten it as there is a aluminium washer behind to seal it.
Then press the lock out button & it should fire up. Check for leaks.
If it still doesn't work and you are sure you had run out oil, then the oil pump may be broken & you need an engineer out. Post your region & someone may help.

 

[stefan]

Thanks best, i will have a go at it again, ..i am located in Belfast ' if it doesn't work i will have someone out tomorrow

 

[stefan]

still the same, if it was the oil pump, how much would that costs all in to fit it? thanks

 

[stefan]

no luck, if it is a pump how much would it cost all in to get it fixed? thanks

 

[keltoyboy]

Sometimes they can be slow to bleed depending on your system.....try doing so on the same nut that Best has mentioned (the 15mm one) but leave it loose one turn as you turn on boiler....you have 12 secs of washing pressure with the riello pumps before they go to full output....so make sure you tighten before then or will lock out again.... so loosen nut start boiler and tighten after 10 secs and if that doesn't work you may need to get someone in.

 

[stefan]

thanks keltoyboy, i will have a go at it now,i will let you know shortly if it kicks in, cheers

 

[Best]

Agree with Keltoyboy, make sure all air is out first. If you did actually run out of oil, you will have had air in the whole oil pipe as well as the oil pump on the burner.
Sometimes the already badly worn oil pumps break when you run out of oil.

 

[Best]

no luck, if it is a pump how much would it cost all in to get it fixed? thanks

Depends who you get, but anywhere between £130 - £180 I would guess.
Might be a wise to get it all serviced if needed also.

 

[stefan]

i had a go at it again, there must be air in it somewhere and i don't know much about them as it is, do i leave it to sit before starting it up again? thanks best

 

[Best]

i had a go at it again, there must be air in it somewhere and i don't know much about them as it is, do i leave it to sit before starting it up again? thanks best

Just clear the air, tighten everything up & start the boiler immediately. If there is still air in the oil line, then the boiler will ignite & run for many seconds or a minute or two before locking out again.

 

[stefan]

Yes best, that's whats happen not sure if the air is out, its my first time dealing with it

 

[kimbo]

On the front cover of the pump there is a allen key nut that is there for bleeding air out of thr pump. It is situated on the top front face of the cover on the right. Surprised that hasnt slready been mentioned

 

[Best]

On the front cover of the pump there is a allen key nut that is there for bleeding air out of thr pump. It is situated on the top front face of the cover on the right. Surprised that hasnt slready been mentioned

15mm nut on front of pump is just as easy a way & less likely to be lost for people being careless & screwing it right out. :smile:

 

[kimbo]

The 15mm nut on the front doesnt always seal but the other one does it doesnt need to be completely unscrewed either. In my opinion much safer for a non engineer also it completely floods the pump just an observation as that is what it was intended for.

 

[Best]

Some people don't have Allen keys I find when I tell them over the phone, but they usually can find an old shifting spanner/grips.

 

[kimbo]

Totally agree best but I have slso gone along afterwards when they have told me they cant stop the leak from the nut because they have overtightened it or the alloy washer is not sealing.

 

[Best]

Totally agree best but I have slso gone along afterwards when they have told me they cant stop the leak from the nut because they have overtightened it or the alloy washer is not sealing.

You are right - some people think they need to use a lot of leverage on the nut or they use a socket.

 

[stefan]

I had someone out today , he shows me the Allen key nut, its on the left hand side looking at the front...he had it running, but said it sounds like its struggling " it maybe not enough oil in it, so i went and got more same thing.."only the red light isn't on now?

 

[stefan]

Hi all, thanks for the reply , i circled in yellow the part i unscrewed View attachment 16479

the allen key nut is to upper left of the circle

 

[Best]

You said in your first post that you had 'refilled' with oil. Obviously you must just be putting a 20 litre drum or so in, which is entirely different than getting a proper fill up & would often be hard to bleed the oil line! The Allen screw or the 15mm nut would have bleed it, but you may well have needed a different method to do this with so little oil.
Once it is started, even with only 20 litre top up, the boiler should not be "struggling".

 

[stefan]

any ideals why the red light is not on, I have 120 litre of oil in it at the minute,usually when i switch it on from the control in my kitchen ,the red light would show on the boiler, Now i can hear it trying to start without pressing the red button... nightmare

 

[Killy Bing]

any ideals why the red light is not on, I have 120 litre of oil in it at the minute,usually when i switch it on from the control in my kitchen ,the red light would show on the boiler, Now i can hear it trying to start without pressing the red button... nightmare

Well, you shouden't have to do that anyway!

get an oftec engineer in, from the sounds of it, your boilers in poor health and its been left to suffer.

now out of interest. Are you filling it with kerosene or red diesel (gas oil) ?

 

[Bunker]

Definitely time now for an engineer.

 

[Best]

By your last post Stefen, my best guess is that exactly what I had earlier said could happen, has happened, - your oil pump may have broke & the boiler is constantly starting/stopping in split seconds as the oil pump catches & slips inside.
It should have been fixed days ago but obviously you have tried to save money, which is understandable.