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plumboutoftime

Hi,
So have just bought a house and trying to remove rads so I can remove wallpaper. Looked online and tried the turning valves clockwise on the rad, this didn't work so turned off valve next to hot water tank. and took off the first rad which had valves at either end. However I am having problems taking the rest off. They all have a system where both valves are at the same end of the rad. One has a brass cap that unscrews and underneath there is what looks like a slot head screw, so tried turning that, and turning the other valve clockwise, but am getting a lot of water. So thinking that this hasn't turned off the valves. When I took the other one off I heard water glugging from radiator, not hearing this with the others. Just water spurting. So have turned off another valve from hot water tank. But still lots of water coming out the radiator, and no glugging. Anyone know how to turn the valves off. And how much water does the average radiator contain, not sure how much water I should be getting out a radiator before I realise the waters not off. Pictures of rad with cap still on, another where i have taken it off. rad1.jpgrad2.jpgrad3.jpg
cheers
 
Turn the wheel head clockwise and use a flat screwdriver the same way until it stops. There will be some residual water left in the rad, but it should stop. There may be a short length of 10mm pipe ( plastic, or copper) that screws into the valve. Look for it when removing the rad, as they have a habbit of fallin of inside the radiator.

Google twin entry radiator valve for images.
 
what have you turned of at the hot water cylinder??
you could be causing more issues than you solve!
 
Thanks chalked will give it ago, and thanks for letting me know what their called, you should see what I had been googling before.
 
I would power flush the pipework, make sure it's free from magnetite!
 
With both valves OFF on the Radiator you will get "Glugging" as the water drains out the radiator,
You'll need containers under the valve as you loosen it.
Bottom part of a Plastic milk carton is good, you can cut it to fit around the valve.

As mentioned by Chalked above, there should be a 10mm copper pipe from the end of the valve into the bottom of the radiator.
This can be anywhere from 1/3rd to 2/3rds in.
You'll have to slide the radiator away from the valve.

One of the Rads looks like double, twice as much water..
 
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what have you turned of at the hot water cylinder??
you could be causing more issues than you solve!

Yeah, I saw that and wondered what/why are they turning stuff off at the cylinder.

To the Original Poster, what are you turning off at the hot water cylinder/tank that you think is connected to the heating system? The hot water cylinder has nothing to do with the water in your heating system, not in relation to removing radiators anyway.

It's a bit of a confusing post with that bit included.
 
I'd say that system was in the region of 25 years old, 1st generation microbore?
Which incidently, seems to be having a renaissance in the modern residential tower block's that are flying up these days.
 
Dual valves went out of fashion in the 80's. The design of rads changed at the end of the 80's making it impossible to get the insert into a double panel.
When reconnecting the rads make sure you put the insert tube back in the valve properly (which is near impossible to do on a double as it threads into the valve before the pipes are connected) or it wont work.
Btw the insert tube is 8mm not 10
 
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I'd be tempted to alter the pipework so that I could fit a pair of valves, a TRV one end and lockshield t'other.
 
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