Discuss handwheel fire valve in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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I installed a new fire valve , oil filter and flexi line yesterday - the heating came on for a couple of hours yesterday but then went to lock out? will check it later .....are the fire valves one way only? and how do these valves work - when you buy a new one do you have to fully open it by turning the wheel? or is it already operational? have heard they can be temperamental....


thanks

dave
 
The boiler wouldn't have worked for two hours if the fire valve was closed!! Also, although I'm not 100% sure, I thought it was against regulations to fit new wheel fire valves. Clockwise = closed, anti clockwise = open ... just like a tap!
 
thanks dontknowitall - I took the fire valve off again , made sure it was fully open , put back on and the boiler is now fine. Think was only partially open earlier.
 
Does the fire valve need to be set? Should it be fully open, or mid-way during normal operation? I turned mine last night without thinking (was bleeding boiler) and I'm not sure what the original position was!IMG_0145.jpg
 
Get them stripped out and fit a proper fire valve and iso valve. Too much hassle.
 
They seem to have a habit of leaking also, o-ring sea on the gland. Proper remote fire valve and ball valve isolator at appliance.
 
Will look into the RFV and ball valve isolators, is it a big job? I only have about 5 ft of exposed fuel line in the back hall before it goes out the back wall.

In short-term, is the handwheel valve ok at that setting? Does adjusting it affect how much fuel the burner draws when firing?
 
Depends on if oil lin is inside or outside, depends on thickness of walls and access, etc etc etc.

The handwheel acts in reverse, so as you screw it in (as you would expect it to close) it will open the valve. But if the boiler is running ok i would leave it alone. As said they tend to dribble when touched.
 
Thanks SimonG, think I'll leave it where it is then - if it ain't broke....
:cool3:
 
Thanks SimonG, think I'll leave it where it is then - if it ain't broke....
:cool3:

You'd be better replacing it mate with a new valve and remote sensor. Depending where in Belfast you are there's a choice. Plumbcenter in Duncrue, ask for John, or on Montgomery road, ask for Harry. They'll see you right.
 
SimonG; The handwheel acts in reverse said:
??? The wheel head valves I ever see are all like a normal tap, - clockwise off, anti clockwise on.
 
Will look into the RFV and ball valve isolators, is it a big job? I only have about 5 ft of exposed fuel line in the back hall before it goes out the back wall.

In short-term, is the handwheel valve ok at that setting? Does adjusting it affect how much fuel the burner draws when firing?

The wheel head fire valve should be full on, but as long as it is at least half on, burner will work. The centre part of the wheel head has a low melt point solder & is supposed to disconnect if heat hits it & the valve will snap closed as it is under tension using a spring inside the valve body.
You need a remote fire valve with the valve body outside as regulations now require.
 
??? The wheel head valves I ever see are all like a normal tap, - clockwise off, anti clockwise on.

Back to front over here, finally got it sorted after covering my snickers in oil a couple of times.
 
You need a remote fire valve with the valve body outside as regulations now require.

How does that work if the fuel line is buried from tank to the point where it emerges in the back hall? Is the current setup not exempted from the new regs as it's been installed like that for 20 odd years? I've had the boiler serviced last year and no mention was made of the current FV setup???
 
You should have been informed by service guy that it needs proper fire valve. It is especially important if the oil boiler is in part of the house. The idea is that in the event of a fire from any source, that the valve shuts off OUTSIDE the building so the oil doesn't feed the fire. If a remote valve was fitted inside, at least it would improve the safety.
The fact the job is old doesn't excempt it requiring a proper fire valve. The service guy is responsible if he doesn't inform you. He is supposed to be Oftec registered.
 
Hmm, pretty sure he was OFTEC registered - from one of the big oil suppliers locally. I saved the report he produced so will dig it out later on.
Anyways, thanks for clarifying new need for RFV - will need to investigate where/how I can fit one to the system.
 
If you can't get it outside it should be at first point of entry. If it's easy to do I take the oil line back outside, fit the fire valve and come back through the wall. Then fire proof the old pipe that's gone back outside.
 
Wherebouts in Belfast Valjester? I'm quite often floating about there somewhere. PM me if you need to.
 
Double checked over the weekend and discovered oil-line surfaces outside before it goes through the cavity wall - should be easy enough to fit inline RFV before it goes into the back hall. Will pick one up and fit it soon.
Thanks again everyone
 
Make sure you get one with a long enough capillary - nothing worse than finding it's too short.

Also make sure you always use inserts in your copper pipe ends and wrap the olives with some ptfe tape and jointing compound before assembling.
 
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