Grohe isolating Valve

[Stants]

Basically connecting an isolating valve ( Bsp thread male ) into an outside tape fitting ( Bsp female ) wrapped Ptf tape around 12 times ... still got a bloody tiny leak
Looking for a belt and braces solution as I'm going to use a few of these as I go when revamping house
I've used Fernox lsx in the past should I revert to this or similar or a bit of both ? Can provide pics of both if necessary
Ps the thread on Grohe fitting is serated
Cheers

 

[Stants]

Just been googling should I have put a rubber washer in the female fitting for the male fitting to bed into ?

 

[steadyon]

Try it with Loctite 55 rather than PTFE. Wrap it in the direction of doing up, laying it across the threads in a sort of zig-zag pattern. The benefit of using it is that you can back the fitting off a bit (though I wouldn't go more than 1/3 turn) to get the orientation right.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Or loctite 577

 

[Stants]

Try it with Loctite 55 rather than PTFE. Wrap it in the direction of doing up, laying it across the threads in a sort of zig-zag pattern. The benefit of using it is that you can back the fitting off a bit (though I wouldn't go more than 1/3 turn) to get the orientation right.

Try it with Loctite 55 rather than PTFE. Wrap it in the direction of doing up, laying it across the threads in a sort of zig-zag pattern. The benefit of using it is that you can back the fitting off a bit (though I wouldn't go more than 1/3 turn) to get the orientation right.

Had a quick gander on net ( not heard of it or used ) looks like a cottony thread ( like hemp ? ) 64 000 dollar question how much do you put on and do you let it cure ? And once cured does it come undone or set solid ?

 

[steadyon]

1. With nothing on either part, fit together. If they screw together in a slack way up until the base of the valve hits the base of the female threaded fitting, it suggests the male thread is parallel rather than tapered. If the thread gradually tightens as they go together, the male may well be tapered.
2. If parallel I'd start with 10 turns, if tapered, around 5.
3. Wrap around zig-zag fashion as stated above, then try. If no leak, back off to required position (or tighten if possible and fewer degrees of turn required) then try again.
4. If joint leaks, disassemble, remove Loctite (fiddly), remake with 5 more turns and repeat as above.
5. It doesn't cure, so no need to wait. Joint can be disassembled in the normal way.

I've never used Loctite 577 as ShaunCorbs suggests, but it does seem to get good write ups.

 

[Stants]

It's parallel defo 6 1/2 turns it stops dead and I bought a 500 mm flexible ss tap connector so got plenty of tolerance as to where it stops and it's tucked away under the cistern looks lovely and neat ordered some Loctite from Amazon for tomorrow had really good reviews thanks very much for your help

 

[Stants]

1. With nothing on either part, fit together. If they screw together in a slack way up until the base of the valve hits the base of the female threaded fitting, it suggests the male thread is parallel rather than tapered. If the thread gradually tightens as they go together, the male may well be tapered.
2. If parallel I'd start with 10 turns, if tapered, around 5.
3. Wrap around zig-zag fashion as stated above, then try. If no leak, back off to required position (or tighten if possible and fewer degrees of turn required) then try again.
4. If joint leaks, disassemble, remove Loctite (fiddly), remake with 5 more turns and repeat as above.
5. It doesn't cure, so no need to wait. Joint can be disassembled in the normal way.

I've never used Loctite 577 as ShaunCorbs suggests, but it does seem to get good write ups.

1. With nothing on either part, fit together. If they screw together in a slack way up until the base of the valve hits the base of the female threaded fitting, it suggests the male thread is parallel rather than tapered. If the thread gradually tightens as they go together, the male may well be tapered.
2. If parallel I'd start with 10 turns, if tapered, around 5.
3. Wrap around zig-zag fashion as stated above, then try. If no leak, back off to required position (or tighten if possible and fewer degrees of turn required) then try again.
4. If joint leaks, disassemble, remove Loctite (fiddly), remake with 5 more turns and repeat as above.
5. It doesn't cure, so no need to wait. Joint can be disassembled in the normal way.

I've never used Loctite 577 as ShaunCorbs suggests, but it does seem to get good write ups.

Hi I used it and it worked a treat just wondering would you use it on a standard compression fitting ( 15 mm ) I normally just smear some Fernox LD-X works ok but just curious of what you can use it on