Search the forum,

Discuss Gas pressure problems, use of MDPE pipe outside? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Status
Not open for further replies.
So basically you are saying that you are not going to abide to Gas Reg's??
Well you go ahead.
P.S Looks like your horse needs some water...................

lol , 20 odd years in the game mate, this thread is the first time i v been called a cowboy.
rollin , rollin , rollin

i don t set out to break regs and always try to follow them , but sometimes a bit simple common sense, experience and engineers discretion are also required.
so do you calculate IV for purging on every install ? if not then you must be a cowboy , no?
i know you would ve been delighted to find a gas leak on an inspection and riddor the installer, who would ve probably lost his job. if i knew him i d have gave a phone, but i aint going to grass him up. it may actually have held a TT when the job was completed, who knows. it was a very small leak, couldn t find it with LDF, traced it with the sniffer, the tenant must have a great sense of smell. 8mb permissable on an exsiting with E6 and appliances connected (its 6 month old, i did not install it so its existing), and no i wouldn t leave a new install of mine with any drop. we re gas engineers , not the polis, shouldn t fall on us to grass up other engineers.
 
If its an outdated regulation I am sure it would have been amended or removed. As all us fitters know the reg's can change from day to day.
But again i will say it, if you want to carry on breaking reg's then do so.

It is an outdated regulation and will be changed. The British Standards don't change from day to day, they take a long time and a lot of consultation before they do.
The current 6891 was published in 2005. Band A's were not the norm then.
ZPG's have changed a lot of things and ways of thinking.
 
Changing the regs to suit one type of appliance would need very careful considerations as it could lead to many poor installations. Many engineers dont need any more excuses to avoid altering gas pipework and i would expect to find more installations with appliances competing against one another which could have major problems when appliances without fsd's are starved. I guess we will see what happens.
 
If that's the case we should all be rushed off our feet 'cos there's plenty of it around...prepare for a payday guys n gals :rolleyes4:

yes there are many, im waiting for op to clarify his statements, he has agreed to do so without fear of prosecution
 
as they must be bonded anyway can anyone tell me what difference it makes to have the copper pipe run outside?

Sorry, Iā€™ve been working away last week and see thereā€™s been a lot of discussion in response to my question. Thanks for all the positive points of view and healthy debate.

I feel I should reply to the discussion points about my statement of risk with exposed metal work outside a building. As Iā€™ve said this is only one of the reasons why Iā€™d prefer to have an outside mdpe gas pipe from the meter to the boiler.

The electrical dangers here shouldnā€™t be confused with the bonding requirements for services within a dwelling as these are very specific and are needed to reduce danger within the home as discussed below.

The wiring regulations use terms like ā€œPersons shall be protected against dangers that may arise from contact with exposed conductive parts during a faultā€ they also have requirements to limit fault current magnitude and duration to such a level as will not to cause danger. With this in mind, consider the following: -

Danger can arise when any metal work, be it a copper water pipe (with tap), copper gas pipe or even an outside metallic security light is fitted to a building where the electrical service to a home uses the combined neutral/earth arrangement offered by the electricity supply company. Why? If a neutral fault occurs the earth conductors of the whole installation can become live at a voltage above true earth. As most users of this forum know, the wiring regulations call for equipotential bonding within a building (gas services included) to reduce the risk of injury in these circumstances, but this measure is only effective within the building. If this metal work is taken outside (e.g. gas service in copper around the house or a copper water pipe and tap) a person can make contact with the metal work and if this is during a neutral fault, can receive an electric shock. Of course, this may also occur inside the house but the risk of receiving a leathal shock is reduced through equipotenial bonding and generally having a dry and carpeted environment. Outside is a different matter altogether and in the extreme, a child grabbing hold of an external water tap in bare feet standing in a puddle of water (during a neutral fault) could have lethal consequences.

Before a reply comes back with ā€œthe RCD will protectā€ argument, it wonā€™t. If the neutral fault is on the mains side of the cut out the earth will become live and this conductor will pass current through the person ā€œholding the outside metal workā€ to true earth, completely bypassing the RCD.

As a disclaimer, if anyone wants advice about specific installations you need to consult a qualified electrical contractor as this discussion is of a general nature. Hopefully it will enhance debate and questions leading to a safer environment.

I'd also like the comfort of knowing the mdpe pipe I'm laying for my gas safe plumber to connect is within regulations and is one of the better options I have open to me.

Thanks for the responses and keep the debates going.
 
the risk of shock is no different from being inside the house to outside imo, the pipe is bonded either way, you are more likely to wear footwear outside than in and although moisture/rain may decrease resistance to earth it wont make a major difference. If you have a situation where your earth has a live current you will more likely get a shock inside off any bonded metal work like a radiator, boiler etc... then brushing against an outside pipe.

You will have metal pipework at either end of a mdpe run anyway which can be touched outside and the break from copper to plastic will mean part of the gas pipework is no longer bonded which is worse.
 
what about a radiator in a bathroom, putting the towell back on the rad when you get out the shower, naked and wet. surely this risk is as much if not more than an external copper pipe run. If it is bonded what is the difference? i see the risk as the same, please inform me as to why it isnt

if there is a fault to earth wont the rcd trip off regardless of anyone touching it? thought it measured what current went out and what comes back, if not the same it trips (in simple terms). So a properly bonded pipe would send the fault to earth and trip the rcd, inside or out?

Please tell me if im on the right lines or not
 
are we not getting confused with not being able to use a pme system to feed a caravan, this can have an effect, and in these conditions then the system must be made into a TT system and an earth rod used, I cannot for the life of me find any information relating to external copper gas pipes or even external water pipes.
 
Last edited:
use hep20 its rated upto 15 bar so will easily take the pressure, use metal cable ties every 2 metres so it wont move, make sure you put a ballfix valve on it too for icelation
 
Hep20 for gas? I don't think so! Not approved unless ive missed something. Ithink you must be refering to water pipes.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Reply to Gas pressure problems, use of MDPE pipe outside? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

Similar plumbing topics

Copper pipes, I think its fair to say, is not what it used to be, the copper is getting thin while the cost is going up. Meanwhile, plastic Pushfit seems to be getting better and better, cost and convenience was always better, but now the quality is to, have we reached a stage where plastic will...
Replies
2
Views
212
I want to reconnect some outbuildings to an existing water supply. The supply pipe is old 22mm MDPE and buried for a fair distance so not going to dig it up and replace it šŸ˜¬. Question is can I use normal 22mm plumbing push-fit connectors to make the connection as finding 22mm MDPE fittings...
Replies
1
Views
243
I was stupid enough not to check the position of the pipes under the tiles when installing a toilet and drilled right through the center of a 16 mm copper water pipe. I exposed the pipe by removing a ~30cm section of the plastic sleeve and a ~10 cm section of the pipe around the hole. Several...
Replies
0
Views
155
Hello all, Iā€™m replacing a concrete paving slab patio in the back yard. The original patio used 50mm deep concrete slabs on hardcore & sand. Iā€™m planning to pour a 100mm deep concrete patio on 100mm hardcore. In order to achieve the same final height to line up with the rest of the patio, I...
Replies
6
Views
183
We are from Alberta, and I own an electrical company. I have been asked by a BC Mechanical P. Eng. to install an emergency STOP button at the man-door to the boiler room. It's intent is to 'halt' the operation of the boilers in the room should there be an emergency. He is demanding that I do...
Replies
4
Views
173
Creating content since 2001. Untold Media.

Newest Plumbing Threads

Back
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock