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Discuss Gas fire flue requirements in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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SPC

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Gas Engineer
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While doing a job for a customer the other day she asked me for a second opinion on her gas fire which had been capped off. The other guy has quoted £900 to "sort" it and leave working. Now upon inspection of the flue, other than it not being supported properly I can't see much wrong with it. I don't usually work with gas fires but do have it on my ticket. I haven't bombed the chimney but am I right in thinking just support the flue correctly and if it passes the smoke bomb and all other tests with the fire on then it's good to go or am I missing something?
 

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Looks like the ridge terminal is disconnected which would require a new ridge terminal and proper supports
 
I hadn't spotted that but it looks very much like it from the photo. With the Selkirk can you screw each section like you would a boiler flue?
 
No it twists and locks in place directional arrows tell you which way
 
I hadn't spotted that but it looks very much like it from the photo. With the Selkirk can you screw each section like you would a boiler flue?
first thing i would do is find the AR report.
you could do with 1/2'' self tappers into the first/outer liner only.
thought there was something with the terminal!!

i would also look into going through the slate with a flashing, 900mm length and terminal cap. £300?
 
Can you tell if that is twin wall or single wall by looking at it?
 
This is the badge on the flue
 

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You don't screw it it twists and locks in place and if done properly it will not come undone. It locks and twists to allow for expansion due to heat so if you screw it it can't expand
 
You don't screw it it twists and locks in place and if done properly it will not come undone. It locks and twists to allow for expansion due to heat so if you screw it it can't expand
i know!
fair point though.
some joints arnt that snug though so needs supporting well on the longer sections more than the 1500mm stated.
or as tam says, nip the joint with grips.
 
I couldn't see it very well while I was up in the loft, only had the light on my phone and the flash as it took the photos. Thought I would come away first and get some more information on how it is all installed properly before advising the customer. Got all of the info I need from that website, cheers guys :clap:
 
Do not screw these flues!
Make sure that ridge terminal is properly fitted to a ridge terminal. ie. screwed/bolted.
Support the flue with proper twin wall supports. This is all the support the twin wall requires if sockets are locked in place.
Carry out smoke test and save the customer a few quid.
 
Do not screw these flues!
Make sure that ridge terminal is properly fitted to a ridge terminal. ie. screwed/bolted.
Support the flue with proper twin wall supports. This is all the support the twin wall requires if sockets are locked in place.
Carry out smoke test and save the customer a few quid.
agree with Graham on all of that,flue can definitely not be screwed ,joint coming out of wall looks like its failed as well,needs fire cement ,bomb test should be done with the flue warmed up if possible,they sometimes leak when cold,not always practical though
 
As gas man I have had few wisps of smoke from joints when twin-wall cold but when heats up all is good.
 
1st ly you need to get the terminology right. Some euro says we don't have flues, only chimneys but that lot can **** off ;)
A definite risk to life and property that wan.
Easy 900 quid job. Couple of clips and a £2 tub of fire cement I'd fly down and do it and be back for loose women.
Btw the ridge tile looks like it has an extender on it. When i was doing this shyte i used to wish every ridge tile had one and even better when they left the big foam washer. It made for an easy connection and saved butchering the sarking to fk to get a connection on.
 
What is the correct method of sealing the ridge tile connector to the ridge tile extendor?
 
Self adhesive foam washer that comes with it.

High temperature silicone would do and use 2 x M10 nuts and bolts and a couple of penny washers.
 
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