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JohnthePainter

I'm fitting a garden tap, and all going well but I am after some advice on the best way to connect to my cold feed.

I have a self-cutting tap (the one you get with those garden tap kits) which has a double check valve to stop the water entering the cold water pipe. I would normally just attach this somewhere after the first stop tap on the cold water pipe BUT there is not a lot of room AND I wondered if I could make use of the push fit connectors that are already in place that are connecting to my washing machine.

I have attached some photos and a diagram on how the cold water pipe is currently set up. I'm wondering if there's a push fit connector that would allow an extra pipe to be connected to the push fit connectors already there? If not, what would you advise? Can I use the self-cutting tap on the pipe that's after the push fit connectors and the flex that are connected to the tap?

Any advice would be appreciated.

IMG_8512.jpg IMG_0997.jpg IMG_4857.jpg
 
The middle photo (of the push fits) is the wrong orientation (it works left/right not up/down) but unsure how to change it.
 
I'm thinking I could just add another T shape push fit where the dishwasher L push fit is. Would that work?
 
Dont use a self cutting tap there terrible,
If you remove that JG elbow and fit either compression or push fit tee, then Full bore isolation valve, double check then tap will be fine
 
Dont use a self cutting tap there terrible,
If you remove that JG elbow and fit either compression or push fit tee, then Full bore isolation valve, double check then tap will be fine

That's exactly what I'm going to do... I didn't feel the self cutting tap would be good enough.

If I send you a photo of it laid out before I attach it all can you confirm it's all good? Will do this shortly.
 
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this should help
 
Thanks all; really great help. Please see attached on what I did. This all seems good; only slight worry is there is a bit of a sllllooowww drip from the left side of the stop valve. I put some ptfe tape round both ends and tightened it right up but still maybe a little drip? Not even a drip... but some water seeping out. I've put a bucket under sink and will check in morning to see if it dies down. Any thoughts?

image.jpg
 
All looks good except for the PTFE, turn the water off undo the fitting and put 2-4 wraps around the olive its self not the threads on the nut/fitting
 
That's it done, all... so we'll see what happens but looking good and no water as of yet! Thanks everyone.
 
Looking ok flow out of the tap is ok ?
 
Nope. The isolation valve and flexi will reduce flow (due to smaller internal dia) but that won't be that noticeable if you've decent pressure.
 
i will ask my paint shop then!

BTW, you havn't sleaved the pipe! probably burst in a couple of years.
 
BTW, you havn't sleaved the pipe! probably burst in a couple of years.

Hmm you mean the pipe going through the wall? ****. Is it that bad not to do it? No one else (on tutorial videos etc) mentioned doing it.
 
i will ask my paint shop then!

BTW, you havn't sleaved the pipe! probably burst in a couple of years.

You won't do it mate as you won't be able to fix the backplate screws are close as it is
 
Hmm you mean the pipe going through the wall? ****. Is it that bad not to do it? No one else (on tutorial videos etc) mentioned doing it.

Your fine
 
Your fine

Do you think it'll corrode or have problems? Cannot think what else to do and as you say if I was to drill 22mm hole, put 15mm inside that etc... there won't be room for the screws etc. Thanks for help.
 
Do you think it'll corrode or have problems? Cannot think what else to do and as you say if I was to drill 22mm hole, put 15mm inside that etc... there won't be room for the screws etc. Thanks for help.

It will be many many years down the line by then your outside tap would of gone/ needed attention
 
You are supposed (regulations wise) to do it and it's not impossible but many people don't and don't know to do it. You tell by the amount of clueless videos online.

Would make sense to clip the pipe to give it some support as well.
 
You are supposed (regulations wise) to do it and it's not impossible but many people don't and don't know to do it. You tell by the amount of clueless videos online.

Would make sense to clip the pipe to give it some support as well.

Thanks, Howsie. What would you suggest? If I cannot sleeve it because the hole will become too big for the mounting screws should I try something completely different?

And yes was thinking that re clipping the pipe too. Just need to work out best place for it as it's a bit 'in the middle of nowhere'.
 
I was thinking the same, there's a fair bit of weight being held up by the speedfit fitting alone, get the length with ISO and check valve supported, if there's obstructions behind and no other way I've used a cable tie before now.

Cheers! It's just a bit away from anything to attach it to. I'll have a think... need a long clip or something.
 
You won't do it mate as you won't be able to fix the backplate screws are close as it is

i do it every time with those back plates using condense pipe, just drill flange screw holes 5deg outward or drill 22mm from inside and stop short half way through facing brick, use no/6 screws!.
 
i do it every time with those back plates using condense pipe, just drill flange screw holes 5deg outward or drill 22mm from inside and stop short!.

Drill 22mm and stop short isn't a bad idea! Cheers!
 
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