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Discuss First Board Lifting Hmmmmm in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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jaydebruyne

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i generally use a floorboard crowbar and a hammer to lift boards, but I always manage to dent up the first/2nd board pretty badly since I'm using the 2nd board as leverage.

Is there a way to lift the first board without damaging the one next to it? (As in, exposed boards that have been sanded and varnished).

Cheers
 
Other than using another piece of wood to pry off no
 
Multi tool bud run it down the tounge of the board cut through that then cut through the board half way across the joist
 
Advice from the Sociey for Protection of Ancient Buildings:

Q. How do I minimise damage when lifting old floorboards?

A. Only take floorboards up if there is little alternative. When new pipes or cables are installed, employ a competent carpenter to lift boards instead of leaving this to plumbers or electricians.

What advice would you give to a carpenter who needed to move plumbing?

:)

Seriously, a good carpenter will (a) cause less damage in the first place and (b) have the stuff (stains, waxes, fillers, etc.) needed to make a better job of making-good afterwards.
 
centre punch and knock the nails through the floorboard in to the joist....only problem being if a cable or pipe runs under. Once you get the 1st board up I suppose you could get a better look though.
 
Yes, multitool or pad saw and (perhaps also handsaw) to cut the tongue fully off the floorboard first.
Then, if you need the floorboard cut, use a multitool keeping the blade totally vertical. Hold a large piece of wood to act as a guide for your blade to guide it at 90 degree.
Use a thin electricians bolster to prise the board up and maybe a second bolster plus a claw hammer to gently prise below opposite side
 
Yes, multitool or pad saw and (perhaps also handsaw) to cut the tongue fully off the floorboard first.
Then, if you need the floorboard cut, use a multitool keeping the blade totally vertical. Hold a large piece of wood to act as a guide for your blade to guide it at 90 degree.
Use a thin electricians bolster to prise the board up and maybe a second bolster plus a claw hammer to gently prise below opposite side
If I'm cutting the actual board I cut the majority with a circular saw and finish the edges with a multitool, otherwise it takes forever!! These boards aren't tongue & groove as I can see through both sides of each board which is happy days - I'll try and get a sparkys bolster though as I don't wanna damage these boards.. cheers Best
 
When I said use a multitool to cut the board, I meant across the width of a board (the usual 4 or 5" most ordinary boards are) centre on top of a joist to aid removal. It leaves an almost invisible joint if you do it right. Multitool blade remove very little wood with their thin blade, but circular saws take out several mm in sawdust
 
When I said use a multitool to cut the board, I meant across the width of a board (the usual 4 or 5" most ordinary boards are) centre on top of a joist to aid removal. It leaves an almost invisible joint if you do it right. Multitool blade remove very little wood with their thin blade, but circular saws take out several mm in sawdust
Very true.. it's a hallway so I'm hoping the joist runs either side near the walls so the cuts aren't that noticeable
 
Very true.. it's a hallway so I'm hoping the joist runs either side near the walls so the cuts aren't that noticeable
Joists usually will be shortest way, - in other words, across the width of hall, I would think
 
I also use a multi tool. The first board can take a little longer to cut. Try to find a section of the board where you can get in front of the nails with ease, you will get more leverage then as one end has no nails holding it down. I then use a short thin crowbar to gently lift. Once the first one is out I find the others less frustrating.
 
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