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Discuss filling solar panels in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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mark_mc

can i fill my solar panels with a pressure pump and just vent the air out at the highest point or do i have to fill it with one of those special solar filling pumps>
 
Stick to manufacturers guide or worst come worst you may need to drain it back which is not a great deal... Worth to try :)
 
I use a small micro gear pump which I adapted my self, similar to the manufaturers type but better (quicker). I`ll try to find a link but its not rocket science
 
its not a case of just pressurising it youve got to get the air out too!!!!!!
use a proper solar filling kit.
Agreed you must leave a filling pump connected and running until all air is out of the system.
 
been to a solar problem today (my first) pump was hot but no circulation. temperature in panels was 105centigrade. tried everything i could think of - 4 bar pressure in the coils.
then was told it was recently filled. up to panels - no vents so i cracked a union, sure enough nothing but air, by the time i'd vented out the air, no liquid left !!
now i got to go back tomorow with a special pump and do it all again.

question - can you not put auto air vents on the collectors ??
 
i have come across alot with auto airvents on the collectors and when filling them some glycol when filled after about 10 mins go from a blue colour to light purple
 
question - can you not put auto air vents on the collectors ??
Dont bother... you can but its one more thing to go wrong just connect your solar fill machine and go and get some lunch..leave it running for a good long while and you shold have no comebacks.
I personally treat it like underfloor heating where i have left the pump running for 5 or 6 hours, it may seem excessive but i never have any callbacks or complaints.
 
Propylene glycol oxidizes when exposed to air and heat. When this occurs lactic acid is formed.[8][9] If not properly inhibited, this fluid can be very corrosive.[citation needed] Protodin is added to propylene glycol to act as a buffer, preventing low pH attack on the system metals. It forms a protective skin inside the tank and pipelines which helps to prevent acid attack that cause corrosion.

Besides cooling system breakdown, biological fouling also occurs. Once bacterial slime starts, the corrosion rate of the system increases. In systems where a glycol solution is maintained on a continuous basis, regular monitoring of freeze protection, pH, specific gravity, inhibitor level, color and biological contamination should be checked routinely.

Propylene glycol should be replaced when it turns reddish in color.


LP
 
Propylene glycol oxidizes when exposed to air and heat. When this occurs lactic acid is formed.[8][9] If not properly inhibited, this fluid can be very corrosive.[citation needed] Protodin is added to propylene glycol to act as a buffer, preventing low pH attack on the system metals. It forms a protective skin inside the tank and pipelines which helps to prevent acid attack that cause corrosion.

Besides cooling system breakdown, biological fouling also occurs. Once bacterial slime starts, the corrosion rate of the system increases. In systems where a glycol solution is maintained on a continuous basis, regular monitoring of freeze protection, pH, specific gravity, inhibitor level, color and biological contamination should be checked routinely.

Propylene glycol should be replaced when it turns reddish in color.


LP








Or just click the link here Antifreeze - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 
Isn't that funny Eco, i knew where to find and add some useful info hey?

LP

p.s your not having your nose pushed out of joint are you?
 
Fill it, fit a ballofix valve under the aav when all the air is out shut off the ballofix remove the aav and cap off, this way you should have no problems
mark
 
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On large systems we use the Spirovent.

Fully agree with using the pump station until the system is air free to the eye, don't forget there will still be air in the fluid waiting for the heat to release it.
 
Dont bother... you can but its one more thing to go wrong just connect your solar fill machine and go and get some lunch..leave it running for a good long while and you shold have no comebacks.
I personally treat it like underfloor heating where i have left the pump running for 5 or 6 hours, it may seem excessive but i never have any callbacks or complaints.

Very true mate the longer the better but I not got time for 5 to 6 hours I usually leave for about 1hr never have any problems

Exept on veissmann but don't use any more to many problems
 
I think he was referring to 5 > 6 hours for underfloor not for solar.

Like you I would consider an hour a long time, not too bad if you have pipes or wires to clip to while the pump is running.

Our biggest problem is with stainless steel corrugated pipe, when using that we go back a week later to make sure the air is purged, if using the Spiro Vent the pressure can drop as much as 1/4 bar if not wait for the full cycle and watch / hear the air passing through the solar station pump.

Fast pipe to fit in one length but it has hidden problems if not watched carefully.
 
use a standard hand pump to fill your solar, you dont need anything fancy nor expensive to do it, if its full, pressurised and without air then whats the problem and that comes from myself whos fitted a number of them without issues and also carries a qualification in solar installation.
 
use a standard hand pump to fill your solar, you dont need anything fancy nor expensive to do it, if its full, pressurised and without air then whats the problem and that comes from myself whos fitted a number of them without issues and also carries a qualification in solar installation.

Hand pumps can be a nightmare with stainless corrugated pipe air gets trapped
Used to use and had to many problems now use solar filler and no problems at all
 
use a standard hand pump to fill your solar, you dont need anything fancy nor expensive to do it, if its full, pressurised and without air then whats the problem and that comes from myself whos fitted a number of them without issues and also carries a qualification in solar installation.

I think a hand pump might be ok with heat pipe systems personally I reckon they would slow and hard work, the only ones I saw filled using this method were filled with water (no glycol).

We use direct flow or "U Pipe" systems for vaccum tube panels most of the time I think the best way is with the pump, same for flat plate panels.

There are a lot of loops to fill with the above types, add stainless steel pipe work into the mix and that's a lot of air to move out of the system, the pump has to work hard, the filling pipes on ours are clear plastic reinforced hoses, even 30 minutes after starting to fill I can still see air bubbles.

Try one I guarantee you will not return to the hand pump again, the time and work they save not to mention potential call backs more than pays for them.

Just my opinion based on my experience with different systems.
 
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