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Discuss fiitting a low profile shower tray to a solid floor help in the Bathrooms, Showers and Wetrooms area at UKPlumbersForums.co.uk.

  1. hussy

    hussy Guest

    hey y'all
    deciding on a new shower tray and enclosure etc. for a concrete floor in my ground floor bathroom. Decided on quadrant 900mm x 900mm.
    Nearly all stone resin trays are low profile and I am not able to find one within my budget that has a compatible riser tray.

    - I was thinking of digging the concrete and being careful not to pierce the DPC course, but how deep approx can I go? Con is that leaves no access for drain. Is it worth doing it this way, is it even common practice?
    - Are the low profile trays ok to place on a well constructed timber plinth (with access to draining) ?
    - what is the best thing to use as a backboard seal for a shower tray, I was planing on not getting a tray with a tile lip but was thinking of using Aquastrap by Sealux, anyone recommend it?
     
  2. Scottley

    Scottley Guest

    The tray will be fine on a well built timber upstand. I make mine with 4x2 and topped with at least 12mm ply. 18 is better but depends on your budget.

    Stick to the manufactureres instruction re the fixing to the base though

    You can finish the front with a UPVC window board curved around and siliconed.
     
  3. Gray0689

    Gray0689 Trusted Plumber GSR

    Dig the floor do it properly will look much better
     
  4. easyt

    easyt Guest

    I took the floor screed out(about 50mm as it happened and made a plinth using 75mm celcon blocks laid on their side. Left access for trap and screwed a 20mm exterior ply on top.
     
  5. hussy

    hussy Guest

    wow you needed that much space out of screed 50mm plus a 75mm plinth. I had no idea I would need that much of a rise/depth to install the drain plumbing. thanks to you all for your replies. I like the idea of the using the UPVC window board to incase the curve surround, nice one as I dread the thought of using thinner ply and then painted or something..yuk.
    I am not sure yet how deep to dig through screed to reach the existing drain that is installed for a shower (new property I moved into) and I am curious too how you dig through screed. All I have is a bolster chisel and a hammer, I have tapped the through hoping to hear an echo sound to indicate where the drain would be but as yet I can't hear any difference.
    If I dig the floor out can I screed over again roughly to cover ?
     
  6. hussy

    hussy Guest

    applogies
    meant I have tapped the solid floor to hear an echo
     
  7. easyt

    easyt Guest


    The blocks went on the concrete so that they started off 50mm below the level of the bathroom floor where screed remained. :) . Also the floor tiles and tile cement raised the adjacent floor by another 15mm. The top of the ply was probably 50mm above the finished tile level.

    If you break out the sand and cement screed in the shower area you should find a concrete slab beneath.
     
  8. Scottley

    Scottley Guest

    Once you break through the screed it will come out fairly easy with a decent bolster and chisel. If you go through to the sub base thats when it gets hard :/
     
  9. hussy

    hussy Guest

    Oh I don't like the sound of that lol
    [​IMG] Re: fiitting a low profile shower tray to a solid floor help

    Once you break through the screed it will come out fairly easy with a decent bolster and chisel. If you go through to the sub base thats when it gets hard :/

    Thanks Easyt I understand the reasoning and floor level changes in that description. I am going to do it properly and dig into the floor to plumb the shower drain.
    What is the best method for seating the tray is it:
    - 5-1 sand and cement mix
    - tile adhesive
    Also, been searching for products to seal the tray to the plastered wall and so far found Aquastrap, Bellseal and Waterstrap, Anyone recommend a product?
    I know you must leave a 3/4mm gap between bottom of tile and top of tray but another thing I wanted to ask was can anyone recommend a panel to place between the plastered walls and the tiles as I know that tile grout is not waterproof and only water resistant, anyone any ideas on products?
    Kinda dreading digging into the floor as I hate the idea of breaking the DPC course, will the drains that exist below the screed for me to tap into be below the DPC course.
    Many thanks folks for your replies.
     
  10. easyt

    easyt Guest

    I tanked the walls before tiling using a brush applied product made by Bal. Lit It includes a fibre reinforcement for the corners and a primer. Left a rubberised seal over the existing wall and took the tile adhesive well. Think the kit was about £45 delivered. Silicone the shower to wall before and after tiling.

    Ask on here about making sure you get a good seal on the drain.

    Pop onto the tilers forum for help on adhesives, etc. What tiles are you using (size / type). what are the walls made of? What cement and colour what grout and colour what grout sealant? How are you cutting holes for pipework or is it surface mounted? All points to consider.

    I tried sand and cement as a bed for shower base. Didn't work for me. Took it straight back up. I used a thick layer of tile cement. Mine was a big shower tray 1500x900 about 60kg I reckon. Are you using glass screens? If so get some glass lifters. I got two triple sucker glass lifters to lift mine in place. £15 mail order and worth every penny. Also came in handy positioning the tray.

    Off shopping!!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 29, 2010
  11. hussy

    hussy Guest

    have decided to tank the shower area walls which are plaster/brick walls so don't think I will use aquapanel or such like. It this procedure really necessary? Can I just seal the walls with pva bond coat 5-1 1st then 3-1 2nd coat
     
  12. hussy

    hussy Guest

    I wonder if I am using Dunlop Shower Waterproofing kit from screwfix would I need to use aquastrap
     
  13. easyt

    easyt Guest

    Best post on tilers forum. PVA is said to be a no-no. Not waterproof. I used SBR. Don't know what aquastrap is but it is good practice to use a fibre strip in the corners and onto the edge of the shower tray. To my mind if you are putting the effort in then tanking is an obvious step. Grout is not totally impermeable. Get water behing the tiles and you have a serious problem. With a shower over the bath still worthwhile but less critical. The most vulnerable area is the bottom 1m. I would personally tank walls to head height as a minimum and go slightly beyond shower area.
     
  14. hussy

    hussy Guest

    Thanks Easyt
    i may need to order x2 of the Dunlop seal then as I think it only covers 3m2. approx 1metre high. Aquastrap acts like a rise on the tray, a rubber strip that adheres to both wall and tray on equal heights, might be a gimmick not sure but it looks a good idea.

    Can anyone tell me for certain that I will break through the DPC course to reach the existing (though currently screeded over) waste for the shower? If so, how do you repair the DPC?
     
  15. hussy

    hussy Guest

    Enjoy the shopping !!
    Good points to consider.
    It will be a mains only cold feed shower. The mains pipe is accessible from the corner ceiling of the bathroom. I wanted to plumb the shower feed behind the walls to connect to the electric shower, at the min though the mains feed is above the wall surface. Is it ok to surface mount the feed to the shower, I ask as I have not seen it done that way before, may look ugly. Although the electrics also comes from the top down so perhaps surface mounted is advised.
    I am going to take some pics and post them in.
    The existing wall is a solid wall where the shower will be mounted.
     
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