Ferroli instant water heater

[thkae18]

Hello,

I have a Ferroli SKY F 14 instant water heater that shows error A01.

Once I hit reset the water heater fires up normally and modulates the gas and the temperature with no problems. Once the water is turned off, and stays off for a while, once it is turned on again the first time it shows error A01 again until I press reset at which time if fires up normally.

If i press reset while water is not drawn, even if water is not drawn for a few hours, when hot water is turned on again, it fires up normally.

So basically, it fires up with no problems only once after the reset button is pressed. Minimum and maximum pressures are measured and are according to specs.

Anyone encountered this kind of problem before?

Thanks for your input.

 

[Knappers]

No, but I'd do a full check first. SP, WP, rate, air, flue and electrodes.
I don't get the press reset thing if there is no fault?
When issues don't make any sense it's always the PCB

 

[thkae18]

No, but I'd do a full check first. SP, WP, rate, air, flue and electrodes.
I don't get the press reset thing if there is no fault?
When issues don't make any sense it's always the PCB

Thank you very much for the reply. Given the range of things it make sense to start checknig the cheapest things first.

"I don't get the press reset thing if there is no fault?": So basically after heater has worked and the water is turned off the heater turns off and shows no error until water is drawn again at which time it tries to start and goes into an A01 error again. If before water is drawn, the reset button is pressed, even with no errors showing, then it fires up normally without showing the A01 error. Also something I didn't mention, if water is drawn in quick succession (in an interval of about 5 minutes), it fires up normally.

"When issues don't make any sense it's always the PCB". If it comes to that maybe it is not worth repairing then.

Thank you very much.

 

[Knappers]

I'd check ignition electrode gap.

 

[thkae18]

I'd check ignition electrode gap.

Thank you. The gap seems OK but I will have the electrode replaced with a new one and see if that works.

 

[Knappers]

Sorry I'm not supposed to give advice that encourages unqualified work (for liability purposes I think)
Should be able to test run and check visually aslong as gas is off....(like checking a spark plug)

 

[thkae18]

Sorry I'm not supposed to give advice that encourages unqualified work (for liability purposes I think)
Should be able to test run and check visually aslong as gas is off....(like checking a spark plug)

Thanks again.

I am not actually doing the technical work myself. I am just helping to troubleshoot and have a gas technician that will do anything that involves technical repair work other than just observing.

I can turn the gas off open the chamber and check but I think I can hear the sparks going off so it's probably not a spark issue. My wishful speculation is that because the same electrode ignites and also senses the flame it probably doesn't sense the initial flame when cold or not just out of the reset so the gas valve shuts after 5 seconds as it says in the manual.

Hopefully replacing the electrode will take care of things or maybe is the PCB board as you said. The flow switch seems to work since it does try to light up, gas pressure coming it was checked by the local gas provider and is OK, the gas valve modulates and has the correct min and max pressures, I can hear the ventilation fan working, water temperature is fine once it lights up so temperature sensor works, flue is unobstructed both inlet and exhaust so from what I've come to understand, fingers crossed it's the electrode or worse the PCB.

 

[thkae18]

Thanks for all the help. It was the gas valve. After having it replaced all works fine. The electrode/sensor was in a bad shape too so it didn't hurt replacing that as well.