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I have a dripping tap which I'm trying to dismantle to see if I can replace a washer. I've removed the cap on one tap but there is no screw underneath as I expected. Below the tap head there is a separate 'skirt' which screws on to the base and I've tried unscrewing both parts but the tap unscrews (as if turning the tap flow to maximum) to a certain point then stops whereas I thought that it would pull off. I've got to the point where I've tried all the things I can think of and am worried that exerting more force will break the tap.

Is there something else I should be doing to remove the tap head from the base?

Many thanks.

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There's either a grub screw under the handles but above the 'bell' or the handles just pull off. They'll be stuck though so may need more persuasion than you're comfortable with.
 
If we take the 4 "Bells" of the handle as North, South, East & West I would try tapping them with a rubber or hide mallet in this order to remove them.
North & South 3 times each followed by East & West 3 times each and so on.
 
I bought a Bahco thin jaw spanner for just the job, if you open the tap fully you can get the spanner jaw underneath the skirt. The top will come off but it will need persuasion.
 
I have a dripping tap which I'm trying to dismantle to see if I can replace a washer. I've removed the cap on one tap but there is no screw underneath as I expected. Below the tap head there is a separate 'skirt' which screws on to the base and I've tried unscrewing both parts but the tap unscrews (as if turning the tap flow to maximum) to a certain point then stops whereas I thought that it would pull off. I've got to the point where I've tried all the things I can think of and am worried that exerting more force will break the tap.

Is there something else I should be doing to remove the tap head from the base?

Many thanks.

View attachment 30053

View attachment 30054

View attachment 30055
Is the other side exactly the same? Or does that have a screw?
 
OK. I looked again and confirmed there is no grub screw visible anywhere. I've tried tapping the tap as suggested and applying more force under the 'bell' to lever off the tap head but I don't feel any movement at all, so it may be stuck hard to the base (I am in a hard water area). Might be time for a new tap.
 
As I asked above is the other side the same or a screw?
Sorry - I can't see any screw on the other side either. I've not been able to get the 'bell' part loose on the other side so I can't see under that - but on the one I have loosened, it does not seen to come up far enough to expose anything underneath anyway.
 
Those taps look old enough to have been made before "push fit" came in. Could you use a scale remover to get rid of all the lime scale above the shroud on the left hand tap? I'd be very surprised for there not to be a screw, probably an oval head machine screw, securing the tap head to the spindle.
 
Last one I did was stuck so bad I had to blast it with my blowtorch, got it nice and hot and it just came straight off after that. I was fitting a set of tap revivers to the tap bodies so wasn't worried about heat damage to the head or cartridge.
 
Revisiting this.
Looking at the pics shows that the central cap (removed on one tap) is the 'retaining screw' When that cap is tightened it will stop the head coming off, just noticed that the spindle that comes through is threaded.
That tap head definately just pulls off, it will be stuck so you'll need to persuade it.
 
After a lot of pulling and hammering I gave up on this tap for a while and put up with the drip. However, this morning the matching hot water bath tap made a crack when tightening it and then would no longer turn off. When turning the tap to turn off the water it gets quite tight then it seems to come off the thread somewhere inside, the water goes on full and you can then start tightening again. This being a more significant problem than a drip, I've been more brutal with this tap and with some serious hammering have managed to get the tap head off and to remove the insert that it's connected to (see picture).

I will replace the whole tap mechanism at some point but I'm trying to work out whether I can make the tap usable in the short term (as I've had to turn off the water supply to stop it running continuously).

The insert that I've removed looks like it may have the remains of a rubber washer which could be replaced but I'm concerned that something more serious has happened to the tap than just the washer corroding - so I'm wondering if I can replace it with a new mechanism.

All the replacement tap inserts/kits I've seen look nothing like this one (most are much shorter) so I'm wondering whether these will work in my taps or if the design has to match for some reason. Most seem to be described as 1/2" BSP but I'm not sure what that means or whether they will fit and work as a replacement.

Can anyone offer any advice?

Thanks.

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I will be the first , the rest will be thinking about it ....

Come on , make your life easier , put a new one on.
 
1/2" BSP will be the thread on the tap body. Pretty standard.

You need the right length from the tap body to the washer so the new tap will turn off. And yours seems to be an inch longer than is standard, as you say. That's the problem - the square head fitting is unusual, but tap revivers often come with handles, so not a problem.

That said, pretty sure your mixer isn't that rare. I'd be googling to try to find an equivalent and then see if the spares for the equivalent fit your tap.
 
Thanks for the advice. I could not find an equivalent replacement online but I did try fitting a new o-ring as a temporary measure and that at least cuts the flow of water to a dribble - but the tap still pops out again if you tighten it too much so I'm guessing that some internal thread may be damaged. However, that should buy me some time while I get the whole thing replaced.
 
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