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Stephanie

Where do I start with this please? Fault developed around December and is intermittent. Everything is off. C is on and LED flashing. Tried everything on the control panel and turned on and off, turned thermostat down to virtually zero and it's still boiling away. Several hours later I have had to turn the boiler back on to heat the water and the radiators have come back on and are really hot, despite the panel being 'off' and thermostat down to its lowest setting. HELP!!
3 days later...fault is permanent and having to use on off switch to heat water, at which time CH is blowing the roof off 😱 Thank you for any advice in advance.
 
Ok, I've had a look at photos of a port valve and it looks like the little box in the airing cupboard that has a lever on the top. It is currently set to 'auto' I guess it's worth moving that back and forth to see if it has any effect in the short term as it's not an emergency, but we'll get a plumber in anyway. Thanks very much for your help.
 
Depends how diy you are means draining down the heating, but testing the port valve first to check its at fault

Tbh it would be easier to employ the services of a plumber
Surely this might not be the whole valve. Maybe just a stuck motor? But then again I'm only young so I may be wrong?😛😀😀 But as ShaunCorbs says would be worth getting a plumber
 
Surely this might not be the whole valve. Maybe just a stuck motor? But then again I'm only young so I may be wrong?😛😀😀 But as ShaunCorbs says would be worth getting a plumber

Tbh don't know how old the valve is and it's just time head vs the body cost there not much in it tbh

I always change the lot as you know your good for about 5-6 years then
 
Surely this might not be the whole valve. Maybe just a stuck motor? But then again I'm only young so I may be wrong?😛😀😀 But as ShaunCorbs says would be worth getting a plumber

I'd just change the motorised head on a valve if the valve was in really good condition and moving freely. You should be able to move the spindle with just your finger tips basically. If it is sticking the new motorised head will fail as well.

If the valve body is not perfect, replace the whole assembly.
 
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Think I'm looking at the wrong thing as this as a block on the back with a pipe running in and out. Here's a few pix from tank cupboard
 
The lever on top of the box on the bottom left moved freely in the 'auto' zone. It took quite a lot of effort to push it to 'manual'. I could hear a whirring sound, then another whirring sound when I pushed it back. Did that a few times and the lever now works freely without any whirring (probably broke it altogether!) Heating still the same, comes on when all dials are 'off'.
 

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