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Discuss Connecting Toilet Pan to soil pipe on same floor level? in the Sanitary Ware area at UKPlumbersForums.co.uk.

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  1. uselessplumber

    uselessplumber New Member

    Hello again!

    I'm in the process of installing my bathroom and i'm wondering how is best to connect into the soil pipe. A tee pointing upwards will mean the flexi pan pipe i'm going to use likely would not have fall on it.

    Is there a different type of tee piece i could buy that doesn't stick out so much, or other ideas on what i should do? could i just lay the tee piece flat if i can get a small flexi?


    IMG_20160727_090741.jpg IMG_20160727_090726.jpg IMG_20160727_090702.jpg IMG_20160727_090750.jpg
     
  2. uselessplumber

    uselessplumber New Member

    Also, you can see from the pictures the 40mm pipe entering the 110mm pipe. I want to move things around slightly so would like to replace this, what is the correct way to join into a 110 pipe end like this, i can't find a product on screwfix?
     
  3. JCplumb

    JCplumb Plumber

    You want pretty much what you have now, but the tee needs to be pointing out horizontally(ish) rather than vertically, you also need to extend the soil run a little so it comes out directly behind the wc.
    You could replace the tee with a 90deg elbow that has a boss for the 40mm waste, again though it needs to be directly behind the wc, so extending the soil run is a must for either solution.
    I'd use solvent weld fittings where possible, especially on horizontal runs.
    You'll probably need to repipe the 15mm cold feed.
     
    Last edited: Jul 27, 2016
  4. uselessplumber

    uselessplumber New Member

    Hey, thanks for th reply!

    Just to clarify, i have another 300mm unit going next to the toilet one, and will box in the last tiny bit (of the bath/basin waste)

    I've just had another look and the white pipe going into the 110mm is actually 55mm, at least thats what it says on the reducer. Its not a compression fitting just looks like an o-ring with a cap over it

    The reason i didn't want to extend and replace the tee is i'll have to cut the 55mm pipe and redo all of that side, or have more joints. Also to move the tee to the right i'll need another coupler on the 110mm? Does the tee really need to be directly behind the toilet if i have a flexi pan connector?

    I've got a 15mm/1/2" 1000mm flexi hose in my basket ready for the feed in, as the cistern has a top/side inlet. Just need to know if i really need to move all these bits before checking out!
     
  5. JCplumb

    JCplumb Plumber

    Yes you'll need a coupler so that you can move the tee further along. If it's an uncommon sized waste connection and you're determined to keep that it, keep the tee and reducer that are there, just move it along with a coupler and a new piece of 110mm between the coupler and the tee.
    No you don't absolutely have to move the tee(although you will need to rotate it), but you are risking future problems by having the tee and a flexi which will create the equivalent of 3 90deg bends in a very short run of soil.
    You may even get poor flushing from day one if you do it that way. A rule of thumb with wastes and soil is to have as few bends as possible.
    If it was me, and that waste is an unusual size, I'd re-do the waste from the bath in standard 40mm solvent weld bossed into the soil in a similar way to how the 55mm is currently connected.
    Then I'd connect the basin waste into the soil behind the wc on its own boss to help prevent the bath pulling the trap of the basin or vice versa (I'd have anti syphon traps on basin and bath if possible for belt and braces).
    The 110mm tee would be directly behind the loo with a bent or straight pan connector - whichever one is needed.
    I'd say a maximum of an hours work if you have everything you need to hand, and there's very little risk of problems if you do it right first time.
    I have a very similar setup in my house where I have vanity wc and basin next to each other with the basin waste bossed into the 110mm soil, it works well, although my bath has its own waste run.
    As for the 1m flexi to feed the wc, I agree that flexis make connecting to concealed cisterns a lot easier, but why not hard pipe it to 300mm from the cistern connection, then use a 300mm flexi tap con. Will mean a lot less weight pulling down on the fill valve which is only supported by a thin plastic cistern wall.
     
  6. uselessplumber

    uselessplumber New Member

    I could replace the whole lot but it seems like i'd be redoing it the same, because to get the fall on splitting the basin out from the bath, i would have to have a huge height of boxed in areas at two places.

    Ok, so say i cut the 55mm so i can move the tee along, put a coupler there to reconnect it. I'll then have to extend the 110, but where i'm only moving it 12cm i won't be able to fit a coupler in between the tee and the existing socket? I can't pull these parts off because i think they are glued, so i'll end up having like 8 joints!

    As for the cold feed i dont have the tools to extend the copper, don't see the point in using push fits when can just connect up the flexi, not sure about the weight of it though, its not heavy so didn't consider that
     
  7. JCplumb

    JCplumb Plumber

    Post some pics up when you've finished please.
    Cheers
     
  8. fishnchips

    fishnchips Member

    I'd suggest, providing the pan and unit are not fixed, butt the toilet unit to the shelving unit, this would probably make the 4" tee pretty close to the centre of the toilet pan waste, then twist the tee horizontal, if the bosses are in the way then cut them.
     
  9. uselessplumber

    uselessplumber New Member

    All the units will be next to each other, joined and a worktop on the lower 2. But even with this they are close but not inline. I had hoped the flexi would be ok but previous replies has made me think twice.

    Now i really have no idea what to do!
     
  10. Riley

    Riley Plumber GSR

    I'm looking for a Plumber or Gas Engineer
     
    • Like Like x 2
  11. uselessplumber

    uselessplumber New Member

    Sorry didn't realise this was a touting forum, i thought it was for DIY'ers?
     
  12. oz-plumber

    oz-plumber Plumber

    Nice reply !!!

    You've been given advice, you've admitted you don't know what to do, and you want to go on the sledge.

    I think your on your own from here on.

    Have a nice day
     
  13. Dotty

    Dotty Guest

    It's a forum for professionals and diy. What you need to realise is that we can spot when and where someone is getting out of their depth. That is when we advise you get someone in. And who better than one of us?

    So on that basis I would appreciate a retraction of your comment above.
     
  14. rpm

    rpm Trusted Plumber Top Contributor!!

    Croppie, looks like he has the hump, he`s gone elsewhere with the same Q.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2016
  15. uselessplumber

    uselessplumber New Member

    Its a forum, if i wanted to get a plumber in i would have called one. I've done the whole bathroom myself so far and I won't be calling anyone in as its not a rush to complete.

    I will complete it myself, i've ordered everything to do the waste from scratch, i was just trying to avoid that hence the questions.

    I really do hate these forums where people assume so much, if you can't answer the questions then just don't bother.

    edit: its also interesting how only a single person replies, and then when there is some "Drama" in come the trolls.
     
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