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tolly

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Hi, Im after a new cordless sds drill, has anyone got any views on what they think is the best. My old Makita BHR200 has given up the ghost. Was looking at the milwaukee 28v sds, Does anyone own this? It must feature a roto-stop for chiseling is one of my criteria :)

I did like the look of the panasonic li-ion 28.8v sds but it doesnt have the roto-stop, you have to use a special chuck adapter which i wasnt sure about!
 
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Does it need to be cordless?

I have a 800W Bosch although it seems to have been replaced with a weedier 650W version now for some reason.
 
ive found the bosch to be excellent not sure about the roto stop as mine is to old for that
 
Just bought the new makita 18v bush less cordless with quick change chuck. Impressive piece of kit. No problems drilling 30mm holes in masonry I have a 2 full kits of makita 18v and cannot fault them. Heard the battery's had issues but had mine 18 months now no signs of them going.
 
I bought the Bosch GBH36v compact about 4 months ago..
Cracking drill.
I bought it when a Sky TV engineer came round to do some work and had one.
I asked him about it and he said all engineers have them and never known of a problem.
I've used it for diamond drilling 110mm holes and it copes better than the Makita purpose made diamond drill.
Have drilled plenty of 22mm holes with it through Brick and concrete.
I've got the 1.3 Ah battery's because they are lighter and still last a good length of time.
Its also cheap considering the price of alternative drills..
Dales Plumbing Company..Brighton Plumbers
 
Thanks for the reply's, yes i do need it to be cordless. I dont think i can afford a hilti te7. So i may well get the 36v Bosch. Im not sure about the Milwaukee though. The panasonic looks awsome and i know it will have the best battery life and a very good build quality, just a shame they didnt make it 3 mode with a roto-stop.

thanks again for the replys
 
I'm on my second 36v bosch. First one did me 5 years of hard graft before it failed. Still on the same batteries though as I bought a bare drill second time around. I may have to invest in one new battery as the lights have stopped working on one although it is still working I'm wondering if it's a sign of it's demise shortly.
 
If you need rotostop and do a lot of hard chiselling all day, a corded drill is a better option. Roto puts a lot of strain on the machine and the batteries wear as a result. Besides there is a far wider choice of corded machines to chose from.
 
It seems us bathroom guys prefer corded, in the summer I had a bathroom full of 1930's wall tiles with cement based plaster to chisel off. My corded Bosch was going all day and I kept having to let it cool down or it would have wrecked it.

I suppose if your up a ladder then the cordless with be better.
 
It seems us bathroom guys prefer corded, in the summer I had a bathroom full of 1930's wall tiles with cement based plaster to chisel off. My corded Bosch was going all day and I kept having to let it cool down or it would have wrecked it.

I suppose if your up a ladder then the cordless with be better.

I use corded for this and always would, but tbh, drilling for condensates, blowoffs and fixing holes is easier with cordless. Less time messing with extensions etc.
 
how good are cordless sds drills for corre drilling these days? are they up to the task or is coreded the way to go?
 
Depends on size of core but personally i would go corded or you will find your spending a lot on batteries etc even if you can find one capable
 
Was thinking of up to 100mm dia, I want to get a cordless sds. And will need to invest in a core drill soon. Wondered if I could combine the two in to one invesent.
 
Any drill could be right for you but depends on what you want to use it for!
 
i had a few kits on site, and iam not impressed at all with the build quality of recent makita tools, 1 grinder give up the ghost got sent back, on another the button you press to lock it in place came off and disappeared on 3 cordless drills the throttle has broken, which means its all or nothing on power, and 2 gear boxes have failed, oh an 5 batteries all died!! i later found out that the batteries cannot be fully discharged as they have microchips on board which runs off the battery its self, if it gets completely discharged the chip goes in to fail mode and once the chip is in that mode your battery is goosed, a major design fault the 3 cordless drills where there flagship 18v ones bhp451rfe, on the plus side the hammer drill is top notch aswell as the re-cip saw
 
mosty li-on batteries will have both low voltage, high temp/current cut off points designed into the batterys chip set. this is because li-on battery chemistry will fail if the voltage drops to low or they over heat, this is why you get a sudden power cut when in use. The makita batts were designed to cut out and you needed to put them back into the charger to reset them i think, but it had some problems so they changed the tech and newer batts with the star on them are better protected from heat.

Li-on batters will also degrade over time even if not used (alot more that nicad type batts, and can also be effected if stored in high temps so need to be stored in cool place in the summer.

as regards core drilling, a 36v sds will do some small coring, but anything large you need a corded core drill. why wear out an expensive drill when a cheap corded will do the job for longer.
 
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ive used the bosch 36v, but after having a makita 24v off work i wouldent think twice before buying one of them! brilliant piece of kit! batteries seem to hold charge good, strong chiseling function , and good with the core drill , have used it to do 4" with no problem , deffo my 1st choise would be the makita!
 
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