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Hi everyone!

There's an annoying drip in the top tank which is constant. It's not overflowed or anything but I am concerned it will. After reading this forum I came to the conclusion it might be a faulty ball valve (simply going off what other people have said about similar issues). I have no idea what a ball valve is or if it's easy to replace. Anyway, below are some questions from me, if would be awesome if someone could help me understand this unit as I've never even seen one before moving into my new flat.

So first things first, this is what I have. Please correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the cold water comes in from the middle valve with the red turning tap and the hot water comes out at the top right? Currently the red turning tap is closed as I'm having a hot tap in the bath fitted and is in pieces and it'll be like that for another day or two while some parts are sourced.

1Tank.jpg


Anyway, the drip is definitely in the top part, I can hear it clearly however I cannot get a screwdriver in to the valve to try and close it due to the position of the wall. To get it to stop dripping I turned off all the water via the stop tap in the bathroom. Obviously I have no water now but the drip from the top is gone which doesn't make sense if my assumptions about that being where water goes out of is correct. Surely water dripping down would be from water going in the other direction?

2Make.jpg


Is the top valve (pictured in detail here) the 'ball valve'? Is it an easy job for a plumber to fit a new one?

3Valve.jpg


Thank you for reading, any help, advice or general scolding for me not knowing what the hell I'm doing is greatly appreciated!

Also while I’m here, I may as well add that when my toilet fills up after flushing it too has a drip that lasts a long time, though does stop. I don’t think it normal to be honest as it goes on for a long time. Some sort of perished washer issue somewhere maybe?


Thanks again!
Michael
 
Ah, thanks for clearing that up for me. It's probably not the isolation valve right? That's only there to either allow water out or stop water leaving the tank right? Would a bad ball/float valve have a drip?

Do you think the fact that the lower red turning tap being off and stopping more water going in (is that right?) is highlighting the problem in some way?
 
Yep the ball valve in rpms link will do the job also @rpm your isolation valve is wrong need an angled 1/2 to 15mm (yours is 15mm equal)
 
Thanks Shaun, you seem very sure that the ball valve will resolve this crappy dripping issue so I'll get on at some local plumbers (Whalley Range, Manchester)
 
Thanks Shaun, you seem very sure that the ball valve will resolve this crappy dripping issue so I'll get on at some local plumbers (Whalley Range, Manchester)

Also try a penny in the ISO valve ;)
 
Mains water in through the isolation valve (pic 3). This stops water going to the ballvalve, in turn cutting of the hot water once the little CW header tank has been drained via a hot tap. A stubby slotted screwdriver will turn this off. Hot outlet is the gatevalve with the red handle. Turn this off when you don't want to drain the CW header tank when working on the hot water side.
 
So the water goes in at the top and out at the bottom? Everyone I've had round has advised the other way!

On another forum someone just said "That would appear to be an unvented cylinder. Do not play around with any of the valves or it could explode. (No I'm not kidding)"

I have the red turning tap turned off at the minute as a hot tap is in pieces in the bathroom until I can get a replacement part tomorrow. After that message I'm now really worried the tank is going to explode - is this really possible? I also have the stop tap in the bathroom turned off to stop the dripping - is this a problem as well?
 
Is there water flowing down the overflow if not you have probably dropped the water level in the cylinder by running the hot tap thats why the dripping has stopped , nothing is going to explode your system is a simple vented combination cylinder , just need to replace the ball valve . cheers kop
 
No it's a combination cylinder

It's a compact design open vented cylinder and storage tank

Let me guess a diy forum ?
 
Correct. They had me very scared...

I have 3 drips in the flat. 1 is the hot tap in the bath, I took that apart and then realised I had the wrong size rubber washer so it's in pieces waiting for me to get that tomorrow.

The 2nd is the toilet which after filling up drips for about 5 minutes and then stops. No big deal but I'm guessing it's the same issue as the cylinder, it certainly looks like the ball valve posted earlier only blue plastic. I'm guessing this can also easily be replaced.

The 3rd is of course the ball valve in the cylinder. For clarification, does my cylinder require a special type and size (can't find any information online about this one) or just any 'Float Valve Part 2 1/2" High Pressure' as posted above?
 
That's it high pressure = cold water mains

1/2 is the tail size
 
Thanks to everyone here by the way, some solid and excellent advice that put my mind at rest and gave me the right information for what to buy. I've never seen a cylinder like this or had electric water heating before. On the other site someone mentioned getting rid of it entirely and fitting an unvented cylinder as what I have isn't worth fixing which seems a little... extreme :/
 
Thanks to everyone here by the way, some solid and excellent advice that put my mind at rest and gave me the right information for what to buy. I've never seen a cylinder like this or had electric water heating before. On the other site someone mentioned getting rid of it entirely and fitting an unvented cylinder as what I have isn't worth fixing which seems a little... extreme :/

Could understand a replacement if you were saying the hot pressure was the problem but as it's just a ball valve :D
 
While I have you guys, can I just confirm 2 more quick things?

1. This is the overflow right? I presume the big gap is not a problem and is there so you can see water coming out and know there's a problem yes?

5Overflow.jpg


2. This is the toilet (it's disgusting inside so sorry for making you look at that!) is the blue round thing with the white bit attached also called a ball valve and are they also standard sizes? might as well pick one of these up too as they seem very cheap.

6Toilet.jpg
 
Yes that's the overflow and the window parts is an air gap and so you can see it running

And that's clean :D

And do you see the nut with the nobbles / bubbles on ? Undo that and you will find a washer you need to take that with you and get a new one
 
Shaun has answered your questions micheal the overflow is correct as i said water should overflow out of there if the water level gets to high just get the ballvalve changed and a new washer in the toilet valve and you will be sorted i would advise checking your electricity tariff to see if you can go on economy 10 or something similar it could save you money over the year. Regards kop
 
For clarity, I recognised you were how shall I say "Out of you depth" and with hindsight (wonderful thing) I shouldn`t of posted so quickly but yet again there was a pint with my name on it waiting.
Both the links I posted were meant as examples, one I apparently got spot on and the other not so.
With photos I recon the guys here could save you from having your wallet raped however one problem at a time would be the best approach.
 
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