Advice on me mam's bathroom

[WaterTight]

I don't get involved in bathrooms really so pretty clueless. Only doing it because it's my mum's and she doesn't mind how long it takes so I can take my time and work it out as I go along.

We're changing the bath to a roll top and fitting wall panels. Today I remove the old tiles and some plasterboard to suss out the state of the walls.

Two walls are solid, one plasterboard/studwork.

Can I fit the wall panels straight to the studwork on the plasterboard wall?

For the two solid walls they are bit soft and water invaded round the rim of the old bath in a few small patches. The rest seem sound. Would it be wise to cut off the gunk and get it skimmed by a plasterer on the gammy sections before installing the panels on those two walls? And can they go straight onto the walls once skimmed?

Finally I've got a boiler warning pipe, condensate pipe, a hot and cold feed and a basin waste which I'd ideally like to move back and re-route behind the wall panels, re-appearing in the corner so mostly hidden behind the new bath. Is that too much pipework to put through the stud work with an angle drill do you think? If so it can be boxed just in front of the new wall panels. It was boxed before apart from the two boiler pipes which were clipped in front of the boxing.

Hope that all makes sense? Any advice appreciated. Thanks

 

[ShaunCorbs]

No, need to re plasterboard the walls

Better off hacking the old stuff off that’s loose and depending on depth getting a plaster to dot and dab some plasterboard on don’t skim it leave it blue faced (moister resistant plasterboard)

I would say the basin waste would be too much for the wall but the condy and services would be fine

 

[WaterTight]

Thanks

Shame about the basin waste though. But still one visible pipe better than a bunch.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Small boxing in just shy of the ped ??

 

[WaterTight]

Yeah sounds like a plan. Do you reckon some off cuts from the wall panels could be used over the boxing to blend in with the walls?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Yeah sounds like a plan. Do you reckon some off cuts from the wall panels could be used over the boxing to blend in with the walls?

Yes you could even use the same trims or mitre for a real blend

 

[king of pipes]

Don't do anything until you get a dehumidifier in there to dry the room out you really don't want to trap that moisture in , hack the old plaster off back to brick or block dust down and sbr to seal, green plaster board is moisture resistant dot and dab the solid walls and screw new plaster board to the timber uprights insulate in-between , strip that sh-te out a couple of units in there with hide alot of the new pipework box in the bits that show. Kop

 

[centralheatking]

I don't get involved in bathrooms really so pretty clueless. Only doing it because it's my mum's and she doesn't mind how long it takes so I can take my time and work it out as I go along.

We're changing the bath to a roll top and fitting wall panels. Today I remove the old tiles and some plasterboard to suss out the state of the walls.

Two walls are solid, one plasterboard/studwork.

Can I fit the wall panels straight to the studwork on the plasterboard wall?

For the two solid walls they are bit soft and water invaded round the rim of the old bath in a few small patches. The rest seem sound. Would it be wise to cut off the gunk and get it skimmed by a plasterer on the gammy sections before installing the panels on those two walls? And can they go straight onto the walls once skimmed?

Finally I've got a boiler warning pipe, condensate pipe, a hot and cold feed and a basin waste which I'd ideally like to move back and re-route behind the wall panels, re-appearing in the corner so mostly hidden behind the new bath. Is that too much pipework to put through the stud work with an angle drill do you think? If so it can be boxed just in front of the new wall panels. It was boxed before apart from the two boiler pipes which were clipped in front of the boxing.

Hope that all makes sense? Any advice appreciated. Thanks

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Whatever you do do not use plasterboard or any derivative, there are really great totally
water resistant back boards used them loads of times. The normal grout whatever they claim will
let moisture in then the plasterboard expands and blows all the tiles off. if you like I will ask marc..our tiler what this stuff is called. he always uses Stainless Steel strips and expensive grout...never a come back ..centralheatking

 

[king of pipes]

That's what tanking is for C hes paneling the bath area so shouldn't be a problem. Kop

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Whatever you do do not use plasterboard or any derivative, there are really great totally
water resistant back boards used them loads of times. The normal grout whatever they claim will
let moisture in then the plasterboard expands and blows all the tiles off. if you like I will ask marc..our tiler what this stuff is called. he always uses Stainless Steel strips and expensive grout...never a come back ..centralheatking

hardie backer or wedi/marox board

one problem i find they say its not effected by water and water can travel through without any effect so still requires waterproofing so better just to tank it

but as hes using panels where theres only one point of entry around the bath no need just need a decent bath strip/seal

 

[Ric2013]

If you're going to dot and dab, seal any cracks first. Should make for a significant reduction in heat loss otherwise you may find you're you're thermally separated from outside by a thickness of plasterboard and whatever is on top of it only.

 

[WaterTight]

Thanks everyone. Very useful info.

Like the idea about a unit to hide some of the pipework Kop. Will get a dehumidifer in there too.

Some other things:

Sorry, what is tanking? I did google but still not sure. Is it a term for having dot and dabbed water resistant plasterboard onto the solid wall as is being suggested by several of you? Or something else?

The space between the current wall on the left and the studs on the wall on the right is I think 1780mm. The roll top bath going in is 1700mm wide (already purchased and sitting in next room.) So not a lot to play with. ..

Do you think once plasterboard and then wall panels are fixed to stud wall on the right and the solid wall on the left is dot and dabbed I will still get the bath in? On looking it up it seems that the blue plasterboard is 12.5mm thick, with ahesive behind it...running out of room big style... Any ideas?

In case it helps re: the waterproofing situation it's a roll top bath and I was hoping there would need be no cuts or joins along the rim of the bath. Was thinking of doing ceiling to floor all round, then put bath in. But would be nice to have a spare 25mm wriggle room to actually get the thing in!

Thanks

 

[king of pipes]

I would do the walls floor to ceiling should be fine your using panelling so no need to tank - tanking is a paint on waterproof membrane I would prime the plasterboard though before fixing the panels . Kop

 

[WaterTight]

.So the walls will brought out by what 25mm once done?
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Also in case I decide I don't want to risk doing a naff job on the wall panels (being my first time and my mum's place 'n' all) what trade is best off contacting for fitting them? A tiler? Plasterer? Decorator?

 

[king of pipes]

Carpenter I would say if you're not confident pair up give him a hand they can be awkward sometimes . Board and panelling yes abut 22- 25 mm. Kop

 

[WaterTight]

Thanks

The warning/overflow pipe from boiler (not sure what proper name is) which I'd like to run behind the new bath... Is this going to be ok or are there maximum distances this could violate? Not a big extra distance.

 

[Ric2013]

Ooh. If that's a condensate pipe, is he allowed to touch it?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Ooh. If that's a condensate pipe, is he allowed to touch it?

Yes he’s fine as it’s trapped

 

[WaterTight]

I actually meant the copper one, the one that is often bent in towards the outside wall where it terminates. Pressure relief pipe? Whatever its called.

 

[king of pipes]

Sorry water Tight that one should stay visible the reason being should the prv fail or the boiler overpressurise then you need to know . Kop

 

[ShaunCorbs]

But cal go in the wall with the others with a slight fall to outside

 

[king of pipes]

But cal go in the wall with the others with a slight fall to outside

Long as you can see the endshaunie

 

[WaterTight]

Yeah will still terminate outside. exactly as before.

 

[WaterTight]

Further bit of advice please.

I fear - in hindsight - it was unwise to remove the tiles before having a scheduled plan for sorting the walls out. I am getting quotes for people to do the walls (plasterboarding/wall panels etc) but in the meantime I've stripped half the plasterboard wall back to studs and my mum still needs to use the bathroom (her only one.)

I've hung plastic sheeting across the exposed part, gaffa taped around the corners and told her to leave windows open after washing but am worried that if it's several weeks or more before the walls are done enough moisture could get to the back face of the regular plasterboard which comprises the wall in the lounge opposite.

If the exposed part is well covered with plastic sheeting and I regulary remove it and dry the inside with blue roll before replacing am I going to be ok for a few weeks if need be or is this a disaster waiting to happen?

Not used to plasterboard or it's tolerances to such things. The solid walls I'm less concerned about as can hack off the damp bits and leave a calor gas heater and some dehumidifiers in there for a few days before they get done

Hopefully I'm over-worrying and it'll be ok doing this for a few weeks...?

 

[king of pipes]

I will help you out here bud don't leave poor old mum like that below is our sponsor the wetroom store (we get a discount on there), go on the site and get some therma panel delivered 1200 x 900mm x12mm sheets simply screw to the battens every 300 mm as below you may need to add extra timber ? the board is a cement faced foam tile backer board and can be cut really easily with a saw its100% waterproof and you can either tile on to it after tanking or stick panels to its so easy your mum could do it silicone the panel to the bath and you can then work on it as and when you have time but it's now waterproof and a bit more tidy and no more water damage. Regards kop

 

[WaterTight]

Cheers Kop

I tell you I sit comfortably in my lane, doing taps and toilets and small leaks and stuff like that. I don't take on stuff I am not experienced in and then along comes my mum wanting a refurb and it's not like I can say "get another plumber" is it?

Looks like I've already been a dumbass. But I will follow your suggestion and then it can buy me some time.

 

[king of pipes]

If you want some advice just ask mate

 

[WaterTight]

Update:
Set an industrial rental dehumidifer on the walls for a few days which dried them up nice. Got the walls done and now all three have been plastered with the stud wall boarded then skimmed.
So my question is, since it's a roll top bath, is it possible as an option to just paint the walls? Or would you always have at least a splashback area tiled? I've seen roll tops fitted in rooms which are decorated just like normal rooms but don't know how good an idea it is.
Just looking at options.
Thanks
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I would guess that is likely only a good idea when the bath can sort of sit a good distance away from walls. Thing is she is not having any sort of screen or curtain or wall mounted shower riser. It's just going to be a bath with shower attachment so all it would be is the sort of steam in the air you get from bath and showering rather than direct water on wall action.

 

[king of pipes]

Your choice really mate the steam will affect the paintwork and splashes will show I would overboard with shower panel I think just the bath area or even half height if you want.