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Potterton Icos error codes?

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Robert Tyrrell

Robert Tyrrell

Gas Engineer
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Got a Potterton Icos system HE24 and it's not firing so some advice please
I have followed the MI and as a result I've replaced the ignition transformer as there was no spark at all.
I got it sparking but it wouldn't stay lit so next was the flame sensing device and lead.
Now it doesn't spark at all and I'm getting a H5 fault that I can't identify. It won't reset either.
As soon as its switched on it goes to H5.
Potterton support are shut from 5pm (Whats that about?) so I'm asking on here.
All sensible advice appreciated :)
 
Robert Tyrrell said:
Got a Potterton Icos system HE24 and it's not firing so some advice please
I have followed the MI and as a result I've replaced the ignition transformer as there was no spark at all.
I got it sparking but it wouldn't stay lit so next was the flame sensing device and lead.
Now it doesn't spark at all and I'm getting a H5 fault that I can't identify. It won't reset either.
As soon as its switched on it goes to H5.
Potterton support are shut from 5pm (Whats that about?) so I'm asking on here.
All sensible advice appreciated :)
Click to expand...
Isn’t H5 something to do with PCB OR SENSOR?
 
Yep - probably but I need to know what it means before I try explain to my customer why they have to pay out more money to get the thing fixed
 
Robert Tyrrell said:
Yep - probably but I need to know what it means before I try explain to my customer why they have to pay out more money to get the thing fixed
Click to expand...
Did you remove the pcb? Check all connections including jumpers and check leads to all sensors
 
ShaunCorbs said:
:D will arrange the appointment in the morning
Click to expand...
Clearly I have been staring at this bag of nails for too long

C853945E-7DC1-49CD-BD97-3339FDF15784.jpeg
 
H5 is a pcb fault loose connection if your lucky , check the condense trap is clear they are renown for blocking and backing up into the heat x . cheers kop
 
Update on this - H5 persisted no matter what I did and I couldn't find a loose jumper so I called there support line and found out that there should be 3 jumpers on this model. The third one had fallen out and was wedged behind a box of washing powder adjacent to the boiler :).

Checked everything I could think of after that as it still wouldn't fire properly, apart from the one thing that looks as though it's causing the problem - the gas valve. Checked the voltage on that and (can't remember exactly what it was but it was wrong - less than 100v DC) so I've told the customer and now they're considering having a new boiler fitted for peace of mind, and the warranty :)
 
you need to check the jumper is in 3 and 4 , if they are within those positions you need to change the pcb also it can be caused by the fan blowing the pcb so check the fan resistance
 
Robert Tyrrell said:
Checked the voltage on that and (can't remember exactly what it was but it was wrong - less than 100v DC)
Click to expand...
sorry missed that the first time — you need anything over 150v dc between blue and brown on gas valve so with what you have you definitely need a new PCB as i said before . these boilers are good money earners ;)
 
masons said:
sorry missed that the first time — you need anything over 150v dc between blue and brown on gas valve so with what you have you definitely need a new PCB as i said before . these boilers are good money earners ;)
Click to expand...
Thanks for all the answers but I've managed to persuade them to have a new boiler fitted, which I'm doing on Thursday :)
 
Best option
 
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