Your probably on the right track with the gas valve. Probably not giving the correct mix to ignite. If it's got 220v on it, it should be opening, but you don't know what's happening inside.
On a side note, each time I have had this problem there has been water leakage on RHS into the little...
Your probably on the right track with the gas valve. Probably not giving the correct mix to ignite. If it's got 220v on it, it should be opening, but you don't know what's happening inside.
On a side note, each time I have had this problem there has been water leakage on RHS into the little...
I don't think this bypass has a spring etc, just a screw (if memory serves) so maybe just take it out and see if it needs a clean and a new seal? Other than that maybe a call to Worcester
Maybe a stuck heating valve keeping the boiler on.
I suspect it would be easy to check, turn off heat and hot water on Hive, make sure green lights on the receiver go out, and then remove the head from the valve and check spindles.
If no joy check the wiring from valve. Should be 0v on white...
I avoid it if I can help it, and recently the workload has been good. I have found out these customers in the past would argue about everything, and god forbid if anything goes wrong with their stuff and incurs extras. They are slating you left, right and centre saying you put up price mid job.
I would agree absolutely. I had a Ideal classic which had an ongoing leak from a drain off above the boiler and a hole the size of a tennis ball on the top. Probed above the hole at boiler 0ppm - still ID
Check if it's losing pressure (usually get F22 if pressure is down) and start repressurising EV and changing water pressure switch as it's usually this. Otherwise you can check the canoe filter behind the pressure switch isn't blocked, then look at pump. I've also had PCB give this but only once.
It's obviously an intermittent fault, so just either got to try and catch it doing it or replace a part with an educated guess. GW technical are going to be next to useless if it's working when your there.
Maybe ask the customer to turn off the boiler overnight and go round first thing?
If...
ESP do have engineers who have CMDDA1 as I went round to a job my mate was on. Exactly same as yours, CO alarm activated, capped off, he went round checked boiler, hob and gas fire.
All working perfectly. He had about 100ppm CO near the front of the house, no appliances running.
He then...
It's in the left hand side behind the pressure switch. You need to take the little flow pipe out and you can pull it out the side. Helps if you have clearance and can remove the side panel
Mate, I spend most of my day looking at these heaps - there's loads fitted round here....
Drop sump out of the bottom and check it's not full, and also check insulation pads at the back aren't deteriorated with the heat buildup. Also flue seal at the top of heat exchanger going onto turret...
Without knowing your exact pressures and flow rates as Simon has said, you are asking for trouble with a mains pressure system (unvented cylinder or combi) on a shared supply.
Lame has hit the nail on the head, fit a cold water storage tank high up, a vented cylinder and a pump if you wish.
Have a look at these mate, I have fitted one quite a few years ago for a dementia sufferer who would turn the taps on full whack in the middle of the night. It only stops when the bath starts to overflow though.
http://nova-flo.com
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