Leaking Rayburn

[Darwinian]

I have an Oil-fired 1997 Rayburn 460k Mk2 with Nu-way burners which was in my property when I moved in in 2001. I don't know about the history of it's first 4 years but I do know that it's given me lots of grief over the last few years. However, it has worked beautifully for the last 6 months (after new ceramic liners, cooker thermostat and ignitors) and when it's going well it's great to live with.
Unfortunately, however, with impeccable timing (mid-December) it has developed the most serious problem it's had - a leaking boiler.
I suspect that it's terminal and I shall end up getting a new, modern one installed and commissioned properly. However, before committing to this, can anyone tell me if it's realistic or feasible to get a new boiler/heat exchanger fitted to try and save it?
If not, and it's a write off, I would if it's possible like to nurse it through the next few weeks without being too concerned by further damage. With that in mind, can I
- run the cooker side only with the boiler side drained dry?
- try radweld/leakstop etc to try and stop the leak temporarily?

[dontknowitall]

Grrr ... lost my internet connection as I pressed send ....

Without seeing your cooker I'm posting blind so no guarantees on safety, blah, blah.

It seems as if the leak is coming out from a nut or tapping or connection rather than a hole in the boiler casing itself. Is this right? If so, tightening a little just might work but if you put a compound on it like radweld then you'll make the job much more difficult and time consuming (and therefore expensive if you call someone in.)

As long as the boiler is venting correctly (up to the loft/attic) then you can use the cooker without problems. (If you've not touched the pipework then don't worry - just turn the cooker on.) The cooker is a separate part of the Rayburn and heats the boiler but only to a certain extent.

I don't feel your machine has to go to Rayburn Heaven - 1997 ... it's only a baby!! I'm not saying you shouldn't change it as that's your choice but it is quite young and you should expect to keep it going for another 10 years spending around £150 a year (depending on where you live). The cooker blast tube will require changing about every 5 years (around £200 or so) and a service of around £100 a year with a few other parts (e.g. possibly some baffles).

They're fantastic contraptions and unlike this modern heating rubbish they're built to last. I'm biased as I've got one!

[Darwinian]

Thanks for reply - that's helpful. I can cook the turkey after all. I was under the impression that the leak was from a hole in the boiler jacket/heat exchanger itself - or at least that was what I was told over the phone by a professional who'se familiar with it but who can't actually come out until the new year. The leak was definitely inside the thing and soaked some of the insulation and foam panels. If there is a chance it's something remediable I'd have a go myself, although I know my limits - I can go so far as taking the baffles out to have a look - is there a chance I'd find the cause that way? The flow and return pipe connections look sound, at least externally.

[Reg Man]

Get it sorted ASAP. Wet insulation panels, water running and heat is not good. Have you spoken to AGA/Rayburn in Telford. They will be able to give you some good advice.

[dontknowitall]

That leak doesn't sound good unfortunately. If it is in the casing I'd be looking asking Santa for a new one. I don't specialise in these things at all though. I can service them and know how they work but need would need more specialised help in your case.

By all means take the baffles out ('orrible and time consuming task!) but I'm not sure you'll see anything you can fix.

Best of luck though.

[Reg Man]

That leak doesn't sound good unfortunately. If it is in the casing I'd be looking asking Santa for a new one. I don't specialise in these things at all though. I can service them and know how they work but need would need more specialised help in your case.

By all means take the baffles out ('orrible and time consuming task!) but I'm not sure you'll see anything you can fix.

Best of luck though.

Don't take the baffles out and leave it running. The appliance is designed to do to work the way it was built. Water leaks in the appliance will cause nothing but trouble, could end up in a safety issue.

[dontknowitall]

Don't take the baffles out and leave it running. The appliance is designed to do to work the way it was built. Water leaks in the appliance will cause nothing but trouble, could end up in a safety issue.

LOL - I wasn't meaning that at all, but it's so easy to be mis-interpreted on message boards like this. Thank you for clarifying that one!!!

[Reg Man]

LOL - I wasn't meaning that at all, but it's so easy to be mis-interpreted on message boards like this. Thank you for clarifying that one!!!

Didn't mean to undermine you, it was just how it could be interpreted. Moral of this thread (Leaking Rayburn) is, no one likes spending out on something that you can get away with, but in this case there could be fundatmental risk for safety, so you can't put a price on that. Owning a range cooker is like owning an expensive car. You know that when something goes wrong you need to be prepared to put your hand in your pocket.

[Darwinian]

Thanks for posts. Don't worry I had no intention of running it without baffles. I'm very safety-aware and know the limits of my competance. I'm resigned to no central heating for a while (fills me with joy given the weather and the season) and a big bill. Boilerside is drained and properly vented and I've made sure it can't switched on accidentaly, and the inside of the unit has dried out. The cookerside seems to be running fine which is some consolation. Would still like to know whether it's possible (and if it is possible, is it sensible in the long run) to repair or replace the boiler jacket, or should I bite the bullet and go for a new unit. Perhaps only a visit from a Rayburn engineer will tell.

[dontknowitall]

I think a visit is best and I'd be prepared for a new one. I think if the jacket is repaired it means dismantling the whole cooker, replacing the jacket and rebuilding it again. I'd estimate this would take two men about 2-3 days. The risk is the sides or back or front (or all four) do not sit square when re-assembled and you end up with further problems (fume or heat leakage, etc).

You will be able to sell it though. It's nearly 1/2 ton so the scrap price is good but a part exchange might be your best option.

[Reg Man]

An empty water jacket with the heat turned on; heat even from just the oven is not safe. Please speak with AGA/Rayburn, they will give good advice to you.

[Reg Man]

You do not need to scrap it. This is a top of the range (Not a Pun) unit. This range can last for many years to come, with proper maintenance. A substantail strip down will be required, but carried out properly, will reward you with many more years of functional operation.